Paeonies do best in a cooler climate that has cold winters and mild summers
as seen in the bright blue areas on our map.
Growing Gorgeous Paeonies
June 4, 2025
How to Plant, Grow, and Love Your Paeonies
How to Plant, Grow, and Love Your Paeonies
Paeonies (or Peonies, depending on where you come from ) are one of the most romantic plants in the world.
They are also called Chinese Peony & Peony Rose although they are not related to Roses at all however their large rose-like, fragrant flowers make them a favourite the world over. They are rare and difficult plants to grow, so are a triumph for any gardener when grown well. They are mostly used for perennial borders because of their profusion of bloom and their attractive foliage which is tinged a bronze/maroon colour in spring, becomes green as the spring progresses.
Paeonies come in 2 forms: Herbaceous Paeonies which grow to approximately 1 metre tall, and Tree Paeonies which can grow up to 2-3m high). Peonies flower from late spring to summer and die down over winter, sending up new shoots each spring. Chinese herbaceous peonies are among the world's oldest garden plants.
HERBACIOUS PAEONIES
Herbaceous paeony tubers are generally available in early spring. Potted specimens can be purchased at different times throughout the year (depending on availability from growers).
They love well-drained soil with plenty of added organic matter and prefer a lightly alkaline soil (ideal pH is around 7-7.5).
If you have acidic soil, add some dolomite lime to your planting hole.
*You can purchase a Soil Testing Kit in-store or bring a soil sample into us to be tested.
Plant your Paeonies in a sheltered position as wind can damage the flower stems and hot sun will scorch flowers. Paeony tuber crowns should be set 2-3cm below the surface of the soil taking care not to damage any new growth buds or roots.
*Apply mulch around the base of the plant (make sure not to touch the main stem) to help protect the roots.
*Spent flowers should be removed regularly. Allow leaves to die down naturally in autumn before cutting back in late autumn.
*You can divide tuber clumps in early autumn when the plant is entering dormancy if you wish but the clump can be left undisturbed for many years without causing any problems.
If growing paeonies for cut flowers you should break off the side buds so that each stem only has one main bud. This will ensure you have larger, more beautiful blooms. Flowers should be cut when the bud is still a tightly packed ball - they will open up over the next day or two and will last in water for up to a week.
TREE PAEONIES
Tree peonies are harder grow. We recommend you plant in raised garden beds as they provide good drainage, which is essential. As with her-baceous peonies, add some dolomite lime when planting - this is essential for all peonies to grow well.
They will grow in the sun but do best in a protected spot as they cannot withstand the scorching sun and also require protection from the wind as stems can snap in strong wind.
Mulch to protect root zone.
Recommended varieties that are thought to be easier to grow:
'Souvenir de Maxime Cornu' also known as 'Kinshe' - large, full double yellow tipped with orange
'Happy Days' - yellow flower
'Black Panther' - black-red flower
'Thunderbolt' - dark red flower
Paeonies really don’t like having soggy feet, so make sure you plant them somewhere
with good drainage.
They’re also not fans of having their roots messed with too much, so try to avoid digging
around them once they’re in the ground. Pick your planting spot carefully, and they’ll
reward you with beautiful blooms year after year.
MEDICINAL USES OF PAEONIES
The root and bark of several peony species have been used in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries.
The chemical paeoniflorin, is contained in the bark of the plant and is believed to be useful in controlling bleeding, diarrhoea and intestinal diseases as well as reducing spasms and lowering temperatures.
Some European countries use peony flowers to make a tea for use as a cough remedy, as well as a treatment for haemorrhoids and varicose veins. - quite a diverse range there!
A Simple Guide for Winter Success
A long term investment for Springtime Delights
Spice up your life!
Cabbages are a fantastic winter crop and are perfect for adding to soups, stews, and salads. Cabbages are planted from seeds or seedlings as the cooler season begins. Choosing the Right Variety Some of the most popular cabbage varieties grown include White (Cannonball), Savoy, Red cabbage and Chinese cabbage. White (Cannonball) cabbage is a compact variety that is easy to grow and produces large heads. Savoy cabbage has crinkled leaves and a mild flavour, making it a great choice for salads. Red cabbage is a colourful variety that adds a splash of colour to any dish. Chinese cabbage include Bok Choy and Pac Choy and are popular in Asian cooking. Preparing the Soil Before planting your cabbage seedlings, you will need to prepare the soil. Cabbages require well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Start by digging over the soil and removing any weeds or debris. Next, add compost or well-rotted manure to the soil to improve its fertility. You can also add some blood and bone to provide essential nutrients for your plants. Planting Your Seedlings Once you have prepared your soil, it’s time to plant your cabbage seedlings. Space your seedlings around 30cm apart to allow them enough room to grow. After planting, water your seedlings thoroughly to help them establish their roots. Using a plant tonic such as Seasol will minimise transplant shock and help your plants to have the very best start. Caring for Your Cabbages To ensure that your cabbages grow healthy and strong, there are a few things you will need to do. Firstly, you will need to water your cabbages regularly. Although cabbages are grown through winter, the soil needs to remain moist so be sure you give them a good soaking during dry periods. You will also need to protect your cabbages from pests and diseases. Common cabbage pests include cabbage white butterflies, aphids, and caterpillars. To prevent these pests from damaging your plants, you can cover them with a fine mesh netting. You can also use organic pest control methods such as neem oil or pyrethrum spray.
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A simple guide to pruning Bush Roses at home
Winter is a great time to prune some of your deciduous fruit trees, berries, fruiting bushes and productive vines. Sharp and clean tools are essential for causing minimal damage to your fruiting plants. Before you begin any pruning wipe down cutting implement blades with Metholated Spirits or a 10% solution of Bleach. Repeat this process of cleaning your blades in between pruning each tree to ensure no transfer of any virus that may be present. Stone fruit, ie; Cherries, Apricots, Peaches, Nectarines and Kiwi Fruit should not be pruned in winter as they are prone to many water borne diseases that enter via open cuts when sap flow is low. These trees should be pruned immediately after fruiting in summer when sap flow is high and wounds heal quickly. Now is the time to prune and shape your Apple, Pear, Quince and Nut trees. The vase shape method of pruning is suitable for all fruit trees - the final shape should resemble a wide angled, open centred goblet (see below). The aim is to select three or four branches at least 50cm above the ground and each pointing in a different direction. These will become the main leaders of the future tree and will be subdivided again in later years to form sub leaders. Choose the best side branches and cut the main stem back to above the level of the highest side branch selected. Prune the outside shoots to an outside bud all at about the same level. If your tree is young and doesn’t have enough side branches, cut the main stem back to approximately 1m and select suitable branches the next year. This is a better option than using inferior branches. During the early years of the tree’s life, it is important to develop a framework that is sufficiently strong and capable of bearing the weight of crops borne. Be sure to remove any decaying fruit, leaves and your pruned branches as these harbor overwintering pests and disease. PEST CONTROL Winter is an important time to clean up fruit trees to prevent problems during the season ahead. Lime Sulphur sprayed liberally on all deciduous fruit trees is fantastic for the control of over-wintering pest and diseases. Copper Spray is best applied in late winter/early spring just as your trees begin to awaken from their slumber. Copper Spray will prevent stone fruit diseases such as Leaf Curl, Shot Hole and Mildew on newly emerging foliage. Timing of applying Copper Spray is important and the 1st spray should be applied as the buds begin to swell. The 2nd spray will need to applied when 80% of your flowers have dropped their petals and begun to set fruit. In Tasmania, due to our damp and humid weather in spring, trees will often require follow up spraying at fortnightly intervals until the weather dries. Monitor your trees for early signs of disease and remember - it's never too late to spray - as disease will spread to new leaves as they emerge.