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April in the Garden

Fri, 27 Mar 2026 08:31:31 GMT

April is one of the best months for gardening in Tasmania. The weather is cooling, the soil is still warm, and conditions are perfect for planting, preparing, and refreshing your garden ahead of winter.

Whether you’re growing vegetables, planting trees, or adding seasonal colour, here’s your complete guide to April gardening in Tasmania.

Enjoy Autumn Colour with Maples

Autumn in Tasmania is synonymous with the vibrant foliage of maples, transforming gardens with rich tones of red, orange and gold. These elegant trees are a favourite for Tasmanian gardeners, offering year-round structure and breathtaking seasonal colour. Perfect for courtyards and sheltered garden spaces, maples thrive when planted in protected positions away from strong winds, harsh afternoon sun and reflected heat. When positioned well, they create a stunning focal point and elevate the overall look of your garden.

If you’re looking to add a maple to your space, the team at Stoneman’s Garden Centre can help you choose the perfect variety to suit your garden’s size, style and conditions.

Why plant maples in Tasmania?

Ideal for courtyards and sheltered gardens
Deliver spectacular autumn colour
Provide elegant structure all year round

Planting tips:

Choose a sheltered spot with protection from wind and afternoon sun
Avoid areas with reflected heat from walls or paving
Select a variety suited to your space and climate

A well-placed maple is one of the most rewarding additions you can make to your garden.

What to Plant in April in Tasmania

Edibles

Autumn is a fantastic time for Tasmanian gardeners, as cooler weather arrives and vegetable patches are ready to be refreshed for the season ahead. With warm soil still lingering, April is ideal for planting a wide range of winter crops that will thrive in Tasmania’s conditions.

Sow seeds:

*Broad beans * Garlic *Peas *Radish *Snow peas *Turnips *Spinach *Snow Peas

Broad beans are one of the easiest and most rewarding crops to grow from seed in Tasmania. They produce heavy yields, can be harvested young and tender, and freeze well for later use. As a bonus, they also improve soil health by fixing nitrogen, making them a valuable addition to any vegetable garden.

With the right planting now, your winter garden will be productive, nutritious, and full of life.

Plant seedlings:

*Broccoli *Cabbage *Celery *C auliflower *Kale *Leeks *Onions

*Spring Onions *Rocket *Silverbeet *Swede *Winter Lettuce

For brassicas (like broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower), planting seedlings is often the best option in Tasmania, giving them a strong head start before winter sets in. Boost early growth with a liquid fertiliser such as PowerFeed or Macroboost Blooming Lot to help plants establish quickly.

If you’re planning to rest a garden bed over winter, now is the perfect time to sow a Green Manure crop. This improves soil structure, adds nutrients, and prepares your garden for productive spring planting.

Flowers

As summer flowers fade, it’s time to plant for a vibrant winter garden.

Plant seedlings of P ansies, Violas, Polyanthus and snapdragons for instant colour.

Top winter-flowering plants:

*Azaleas *Camellias *Daphne *Ericas *Hellebores *Leucadendrons

*Proteas *Rhododendrons

These plants bring colour, structure, and life to your garden through the colder months.

Spring Bulbs – Plant Now for Stunning Spring Colour

Spring bulbs are the hidden gems of the garden, quietly developing beneath the soil before bursting into vibrant colour in late winter and spring. In Tasmania, autumn is the perfect time to plant new season bulbs, giving them the cool conditions they need to establish strong roots and deliver spectacular blooms.

For best results, plant bulbs at a depth of approximately twice their width and ensure the soil is free-draining to prevent rot during wetter months. A great planting position is beneath deciduous trees, where bulbs receive plenty of winter sunlight and natural shade in summer.

If you’re growing tulips in Tasmania, chilling bulbs in the fridge for around six weeks before planting can significantly improve flowering performance. Once flowering has finished, feed your bulbs with a quality bulb fertiliser to support strong blooms the following year.

For more tips and inspiration, read our blog on Growing Spring Bulbs and make the most of your spring display.

You can purchase Spring Bulbs in our online shop here .

April Checklist

April is a busy transition month in Tasmanian gardens, marking the peak of autumn and the shift toward cooler weather. It’s a time of harvesting, planting and preparing - setting your garden up for a productive winter and a strong start to spring.

Harvesting & Garden Maintenance

Prevent Pumpkin Rot - As pumpkins ripen, keeping them off damp soil is key to preventing rot.

Simply place a dry, non-porous barrier underneath the fruit to improve airflow and stop moisture build-up.

What to use: Wooden boards or planks, bricks, pavers or tiles, straw or hay (for a breathable base), broken terracotta pots, cardboard or plastic trays.

Quick tips: Turn pumpkins every few days to avoid soft spots. Lift them early (around apple size) to keep them dry. Remove nearby leaves to reduce humidity. Harvest before heavy rain and finish ripening in a sunny spot.

A simple lift off the ground can make all the difference to a healthy, long-lasting harvest.

Harvest remaining summer crops like tomatoes, zucchini and capsicums
Continue picking autumn produce such as beetroot, celery and spinach
Save seeds from heirloom vegetables and flowers for next season
Clean up garden beds – remove spent crops, old tomato plants and fallen fruit to reduce pest problems
Prune shrubs and climbers after flowering and lightly trim perennials
Prune raspberry canes (late autumn), then feed and mulch well
Repair lawns after summer - reseeding now will help them recover before winter

Pest Control & Protection

Watch for cabbage moth – caterpillars often appear mid-autumn; protect crops with netting or treat with Eco Caterpillar Killer
Check lawns for grubs if you notice patchy areas or small holes
Monitor azaleas for leaf miner activity over the coming weeks
Control snails and slugs, which thrive in damp autumn conditions
Prepare for frost – have covers ready for tender plants as nights cool down

Autumn is also a beautiful planting season, with camellias, azaleas and daphne arriving in store - perfect for adding colour, structure and fragrance to your winter garden.

A little effort in April goes a long way - helping your garden stay healthy, productive and ready for the seasons ahead.

March in the Garden

Wed, 25 Feb 2026 03:45:19 GMT

Tasmania’s Autumn Planting & Harvest Guide

March in Tasmania signals the start of autumn gardening - a season of transition and opportunity.

As summer fades, soaking autumn rains begin, while the warmth of summer sun still lingers in the soil, protected by fallen leaves acting as a natural mulch. With cooler temperatures and more reliable rainfall, this is the perfect time to prepare your garden for winter and spring growth .

What to Plant in March

Tasmania’s mild autumn weather makes March ideal for cool-season crops and vibrant flowers.

Flowers to Plant Now

Autumn is ideal for these colourful seasonal flowers :

Cyclamen, Primulas, Polyanthus, Violas, Dianthus and Pansies.

Sweet peas should be sown around St Patrick’s Day. They thrive in sunny, well-drained soil and benefit from dolomite lime if your soil is acidic.

Spring-flowering bulbs start arriving in March and can be planted over the next six weeks

Vegetable Seedlings to Plant Now

Beetroot, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Celery, Leeks, Lettuce, Cabbage, Wombok, Silverbeet, Spinach, Kale,

Spring Onions and Chives.

Leeks thrive in full sun and fertile, well-drained soil. For thick, white stems, plant seedlings at least 10cm deep and space widely. For slimmer stems, space seedlings about 100mm apart.

Seeds to Sow in March

Early March is perfect for sowing:

Carrot, Parsnip, Beetroot, Turnip, English spinach, Broad beans, Peas (frost-free districts only), Asian leafy vegetables, Asian root vegetables, Radish, Spring & salad onions, Lettuce, Garlic cloves.

If resting a vegie bed over winter, sow a green manure crop. Green manure improves soil structure, adds nutrients, and prepares beds for spring planting.

What to Harvest in March – Late Summer Crops

Even as summer fades, many vegetables are still producing:

Vegetables

Beans, zucchinis, capsicums, chillies, cucumbers – can be snap-frozen or pickled.
Tomatoes – turn ripe fruit into passata, sauces, chutneys, or freeze in meal-sized portions. Green tomatoes can be made into pickles.
Lettuce, rocket, silverbeet, spinach, rhubarb – enjoy fresh, or blanch/cook and freeze for winter use.

Root & Storage Crops

Pumpkins – leave on the vine until plants die after the first frost. Harvest with a stub of stem and store in a cool, dry, ventilated area.
Potatoes – dig before wet, cold weather; dry in the sun, brush off soil, and store in a dark, cool place with good air circulation.

March Garden Jobs – Autumn Care Tips for Tasmania

Preparing Your Garden Beds

After harvesting and as flowers and vegetables fade:

Remove spent plants.
Dig over the soil to a depth of around 300mm.
Add organic compost, fertiliser, and lime as needed.
Water thoroughly to prepare beds for winter planting of vegetables, flowers, and bulbs.

Apply dolomite lime to lawns and apple trees if required.
Feed citrus trees and monitor for scale or sooty mould, treating with Eco-oil or a scale gun if needed.
Fertilise lawns with a quality lawn food to help them recover from summer stress.
Water deeply at least once a week during dry spells; add a wetting agent to encourage deep soil penetration.
Hand-pull or hoe out weeds as they appear to reduce competition and pest habitats.

Use snail and slug traps or baits to protect young seedlings.
Prune roses for a vibrant autumn flush of flowers.
Feed cymbidium orchids to promote strong flower spikes.
Refresh your herb garden, sowing carrots, broad beans, radish, parsnip, and locally grown garlic seed.
Plant natives and advanced trees - autumn’s soil warmth helps roots establish before winter.

March is a month of transition and preparation in Tasmania - a time to reflect on the abundance of summer while setting the foundation for the cooler months ahead. With warm soil still encouraging strong root growth and autumn rains refreshing garden beds, it’s the ideal opportunity to plant, harvest and improve your soil.

It’s also the perfect time to take stock of your summer garden - noting what thrived, what struggled, and where improvements can be made for next season. If you’re unsure what to plant next or how to improve your results, pop in and have a chat with our team - we’re always happy to help with advice tailored to your garden. By staying on top of seasonal jobs now - from feeding and pruning to sowing winter crops and spring bulbs - you’ll enjoy a productive autumn harvest and position your garden for healthy winter resilience and a vibrant burst of growth in spring.

How to Grow a Thriving Vegie Garden With Our Nursery Guide

Wed, 17 Dec 2025 20:04:28 GMT

Are you dreaming of fresh, flavourful vegetables straight from your backyard? At Stoneman’s Garden Centre, serving Hobart, Tasmania, we know that a flourishing vegetable garden begins with expertise from a reliable nursery. At our nursery, we offer everything you need to transform a simple patch of earth into a sustainable source of healthy food, all tailored to Tasmania’s unique climate. Let us share our passion, expertise, and local knowledge so your kitchen garden thrives this growing season.

Why a Local Nursery Is Your Vegie Garden’s Best Friend

Choosing the right nursery can make all the difference in your garden’s success. As a trusted garden centre and nursery, we understand which vegetables and gardening practices work best here in Hobart’s cool, temperate climate. Because our nursery stocks plants grown and acclimatised for the region, you gain a critical edge. Not sure which seedlings to start? Rely on our years of experience to recommend the tastiest, most robust varieties that flourish locally.

We provide more than just plants. When you visit our nursery in Hobart, Tasmania , you benefit from one-on-one advice, choosing from a curated selection of seeds, seedlings, tools, soils, and organic boosters perfect for your home garden.

Step-by-Step: Plan Your Vegetable Garden for Success

Planning is everything. Before picking up your first trowel, evaluate your space, sun exposure, and soil type.

Assess Your Space: Most vegetables need six or more hours of sunlight each day. Use stakes, string, or even chalk lines to map out garden beds according to your available space.
Test the Soil: Good soil is the foundation of any healthy garden. We encourage all our nursery customers to bring in a small soil sample, and our team will advise if any amendments need to be made.
Prepare the Ground: Dig through the garden soil, remove weeds and rocks, and break up compacted earth. Incorporate plenty of compost and organic matter, which you’ll find at our garden centre.

Soil, Compost, and Organic Fertiliser Tips

With Tasmania’s sometimes-challenging soils, enriching and feeding your beds is essential. Here at our nursery, we offer a variety of soil conditioners, mulches, and Australian-certified organic compost blends that prime your garden for growth.

Compost: Homemade or ready-to-use from our garden centre, compost boosts soil life, encouraging earthworms and beneficial microbes.
Organic Fertilisers: Our shelves are stocked with seaweed tonics, pelletised manures, and slow-release formulations ideal for establishing strong, healthy vegies.
Mulching: Prevent weeds and lock in moisture with straw, lucerne, or bark chips, which are available at our garden and landscaping centre .

Our team is always happy to discuss the right application rates and numbers with you.

Choose Your Vegies: Selecting the Best at the Nursery

The excitement builds when you select your vegetable seedlings. As a leading nursery in Hobart, we stock a robust range of heritage and hybrid varieties, from crisp lettuces and crunchy carrots to climbing beans, tomatoes, and root crops suited for year-round harvests. Our staff recommends planting cool-season crops early, think brassicas, peas, and leafy greens, while reserving summer for tomatoes, corn, and zucchini.

Not sure what suits your space? Starting your seedlings is easy and sustainable.

Eco-Friendly Pest Control and Sustainable Gardening

Sustainability is more than a buzzword at our nursery; it’s a way of life. Our garden centre is committed to helping you protect your harvest without harming beneficial insects or the environment.

We stock trusted brands of organic pest deterrents, such as neem oils, insecticidal soaps, and netting solutions to keep cabbage moths and possums at bay.

We encourage mulching, composting, and crop rotation, all simple steps towards a resilient, low-impact vegie patch, keeping your garden productive and the planet happy.

Tools and Products for Every Gardener

A thriving kitchen garden needs the right tools. Our garden centre caters to both beginner and experienced gardeners with ergonomic trowels, reliable watering cans, soil pH kits, raised bed kits, and durable gloves. We proudly offer Australian-made brands and eco-conscious products that hold up in Tassie weather.

Ready to Start Your Vegetable Garden? Let’s Grow Together!

At Stoneman’s Garden Centre, we’re passionate about seeing every customer reap the rewards of their kitchen garden. Whether you’re seasoned or starting from scratch, our nursery and garden centre in Hobart are here to help. Call us at 03 6273 0611 , or visit our contact page to get in contact now . You can visit our store for personal advice, the best local range, and friendly support. Let’s grow your sustainable vegetable garden together!

Wallaby Proof Plants

Mon, 29 Sep 2025 02:59:53 GMT

Plants That Pademelons, Wallabies and Kangaroos Don’t Usually Eat

If you live in an area where pademelons, wallabies and kangaroos are regular visitors, protecting your garden can be a real challenge. These animals browse widely, and during drought conditions almost no plant is completely safe from their nibbling.

That said, there are certain plants kangaroos and wallabies usually avoid - particularly those that are prickly, tough, or rich in essential oils. However, keep in mind that they are very partial to new growth and will happily graze on young plants and fresh shoots, even from species they might otherwise ignore.

Do Pademelons, Wallabies and Kangaroos Eat Everything?

Generally, wallabies and kangaroos dislike plants that are:

Rich in essential oils – such as eucalyptus, mint, and rosemary-like natives
Prickly or spiny – like hakeas and grevilleas
Woody or tough – including many banksias and melaleucas

For example, gum leaves and plants growing close to eucalyptus are rarely eaten. However, in harsh conditions, even your prickliest shrubs may not be safe.

Protecting Your Garden from Kangaroos and Wallabies

The best way to protect vegetables, herbs, and soft-leaved plants is to use wire netting or fencing. Just remember:

Wallabies and kangaroos can jump, so barriers need to be tall enough.
Consider planting a mix of less palatable species to discourage browsing.
Chemical repellents are available, but their effectiveness is not guaranteed.

One easy way to protect your veggie patch from hungry wallabies is to put up a simple hoop structure. With just a few star pickets, some poly pipe, and chicken wire, you can create a budget-friendly cover that keeps your plants safe while still letting in plenty of sunshine and rain. Just remember, you’ll also need to think about creating a people-friendly entrance so you can easily get in and out of your garden.

A Guide to Wallaby, Pademelon & Kangaroo Resistant Plants

The following list is intended as a general guide only and is not a complete record of plants that wallabies, pademelons and kangaroos may avoid - there are no guarantees that any plant on the list will not be eaten.

Blue Hibiscus (Alyogyne huegelii)
Astartea (Astartea fasciculata)
Midyim Berry (Austromyrtus dulcis)
Baeckea (Baeckea virgata)
Pink Boronia (Boronia heterophylla)
Mat Rushes (Lomandra)
Native Laurel (A nopterus glandulosus
Bottlebrush (Callistemon spp.)
Net Bush (Calothamnus validus)
Geraldton Wax (Chamelaucium spp.)
Heart-leaf Flame Pea (Chorizema cordatum)
Small Crowea (Crowea exalata)
Dampiera (Dampiera diversifolia)
Darwinia (Darwinia oldfieldii)
Flax Lily ( Dianella )
Tar Bush / Emu Bush (Eremophila glabra)
Spotted Emu Bush (Eremophila maculata)
Native Daphne (Eriostemon myoporoides / Philotheca myoporoides)
Eucalyptus / Gum Trees (most varieties)
Grevilleas (most varieties)
Hakeas (most varieties)
Snake Bush (Hemiandra pungens)
Climbing Guinea Flower (Hibbertia scandens)
Devil’s Pins (Hovea pungens)
Pink Myrtle (Hypocalymma angustifolium)
Swan River Myrtle (Hypocalymma robustum)
Scarlet Kunzea (Kunzea baxteri)
Tea Tree (Cardwell variety) (Leptospermum ‘Cardwell’)
Silver Tea Tree (Leptospermum sericium)
Dusky Bells Correa (Correa ‘Dusky Bells’)
Black Kangaroo Paw (Macropidia fuliginosa)
Paperbarks / Honey Myrtles (Melaleuca spp.)
Native Mint Bush (Prostanthera ovalifolia)
Thryptomene (Thryptomene saxicola)
Coastal Rosemary (Westringia fruticosa)

Exotic Plants Often Avoided

Chrysanthemums (most varieties)
Daisies (most varieties)
Geraniums (most varieties)
Mint (most varieties)
Rosemary

In short, wallabies and kangaroos tend to avoid spiky shrubs (Grevillea, Hakea), woody natives (Eucalyptus, Melaleuca, Westringia), and strongly scented plants (Chrysanthemums, Geraniums, Mint bushes).

When planning a wallaby or kangaroo-resistant garden:

Choose prickly, woody, or strong-smelling plants like grevilleas, hakeas, chrysanthemums, mint bushes, geraniums, and daisies.
Protect sensitive plants with wire netting or fencing.
Remember, no plant is completely safe - especially in drought conditions.

Wallaby grazing habits can be unpredictable - what they eat in one garden, they may ignore in the next. Get creative with protection, as their tastes can change and drought can make them less fussy.

By combining plant selection with some physical barriers, you can enjoy a thriving garden while coexisting with local wildlife.

The Beauty of Bulbs

Wed, 23 Jul 2025 05:37:51 GMT

Brighten Your Garden Year-Round with Flowering Bulbs

When we think of flowering bulbs, daffodils and tulips usually come to mind—but there’s a whole world of vibrant, easy-to-grow bulbs that can add seasonal colour, structure, and fragrance to your garden. Whether you're planting for a burst of spring joy or summer brilliance, bulbs are a simple and satisfying way to bring life to your garden.

Spring vs. Summer Flowering Bulbs

Most people are familiar with spring-flowering bulbs, which include favourites like tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and crocus. These are generally available in nurseries around late February to April.

But don’t stop there! Many stunning summer and autumn flowering bulbs are available from June through August, depending on the variety. These include dahlias, gladioli, lilies, nerines, belladonna lilies, and more. Adding these to your garden keeps the colour going well beyond spring.

How to Plant Bulbs for Best Results

Growing bulbs is surprisingly easy, especially when you follow a few simple guidelines:

1. Soil Preparation
Most bulbs thrive in well-drained soil enriched with compost. Avoid areas prone to waterlogging, as this can cause bulbs to rot.

2. Light Requirements
Plant bulbs in a sunny position, unless you're working with shade-loving varieties like clivias or hostas. For partial shade, bulbs under deciduous trees can work beautifully in the cooler months.

3. Planting Depth & Orientation
As a general rule, plant bulbs at a depth twice the height of the bulb. Always plant with the pointed end facing up. If you’re unsure, look for the old root base—it usually goes down.
Some varieties like nerines and belladonna lilies should have their necks exposed above the soil.

4. Post-Flowering Care
After flowering, feed your bulbs with an All Purpose Plant Food and Sulphate of Potash to encourage strong blooms next year. Let the leaves die down completely before removing or lifting bulbs. This helps them store energy for the following season.

Lifting, Dividing & Storing Bulbs

Not all bulbs need to be lifted each year, but tulips and hyacinths are exceptions—they can rot in the ground over summer.

Other bulbs benefit from lifting and dividing every few years to improve flowering. Store dormant bulbs in a net bag in a cool, dry, and airy location. If you leave bulbs in the ground, make sure they don’t get too much moisture during the summer months.

Pro tip: Pop tulip bulbs in the fridge for 4–6 weeks before planting to encourage strong flower production. An egg carton is the perfect storage solution!

Bulbs in Pots & Containers

Bulbs are ideal for pots and tubs, especially if you have limited space or want t o add colour to patios or entrances.

Use a high quality, free draing potting mix like Stoneman’s Premium Potting Mix - and position pots in a sunny to part-shaded spot depending on the variety.

For a stunning display, mass plant bulbs or mix them with flowering annuals like pansies, violas, alyssum or petunias. These combinations add early colour and create beautiful, evolving arrangements throughout the season.

Once in bloom, move pots into high-traffic areas or bring them indoors to enjoy the flowers up close. After flowering, allow leaves to die down naturally so bulbs store energy for next season.

Did You Know?

Tasmania has one of the best climates in the world for growing bulbs.
Daffodil and hyacinth bulbs are toxic if ingested - keep them away from pets and children.
Ranunculus corms should be planted with the “claws” down; anemones flat side up.
Some bulbs that thrive in shaded areas include Lily of the Valley, Clivias, Hostas, Astilbes, Ginger Lilies, Crinums, and Peonies.
In 17th-century Holland, flower bulbs were once more valuable than gold!

Final Tips for Success

Plant bulbs as soon as you get them home.
If storing before planting, keep them cool, dry, and well-ventilated.
Water lightly after planting and avoid soggy conditions.

Whether you’re an experienced gardener or just getting started, adding bulbs to your garden is one of the easiest ways to enjoy months of stunning flowers.

Visit us in-store or explore our seasonal bulb range online to get started today!

Pet Friendly Houseplants

Wed, 23 Jul 2025 04:17:48 GMT

Pet-Friendly Indoor Plants for Tasmanian Homes

Love the lush look of indoor greenery but need to keep your curious pets safe? You're not alone. Many popular indoor plants can be harmful to cats and dogs, but there are plenty of beautiful, non-toxic options that will thrive in Tasmanian homes.

Here’s a curated list of pet-friendly indoor plants that combine beauty, resilience, and peace of mind:

African Violet (Saintpaulia)

Add colour with these compact, flowering plants. They’re completely pet-safe and love Tasmania’s indoor climate. Light: Bright, indirect light. Water: Bottom-water to protect leaves.

Calathea (Prayer Plant family)

Known for their stunning leaf patterns and rhythmic leaf movement, Calatheas are non-toxic and perfect for bathrooms or kitchens where humidity is higher.

Light: Bright, indirect light. Water: Keep soil moist (not soggy); mist regularly.

Peperomia

Pet-safe and perfectly suited to small spaces, Peperomia varieties come in an array of colours and textures, making them a fun and easy-care option.

Light: Medium to bright indirect light. Water: Allow soil to dry slightly between waterings.

Golden Cane Palm (Dypsis lutescens)

A popular, air-purifying palm that adds a tropical touch to any room—and it’s completely safe for pets.

Light: Bright, filtered light. Water: Water when the top few centimetres of soil are dry.

Spider Plant (Anthericum comosum)

With arching variegated leaves and baby offshoots, this classic indoor plant is pet-safe and very forgiving.

Light: Tolerates low to bright indirect light. Water: Allow soil to dry slightly between waterings.

Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)

Despite its name, it’s not a true palm—but it is a fabulous, pet-friendly statement plant. The bulbous trunk stores water, making it drought-tolerant and low-maintenance.

Light: Bright light, even some direct sun. Water: Allow soil to dry between waterings.

Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)

Perfect for cooler Tasmanian homes, Boston Ferns love a little humidity and provide soft, flowing greenery.

Light: Indirect light or dappled shade. Water: Keep soil evenly moist and mist often.

Baby Tears (Soleirolia soleirolii)

A delicate trailing plant ideal for hanging pots or terrariums. Thrives in moisture and is completely safe for pets.

Light: Medium to bright indirect light. Water: Keep soil consistently moist.

Pilea spp.

From the popular Pilea peperomioides (Chinese Money Plant) to other textured varieties, Pileas are fun, fast-growing and pet-friendly.

Light: Bright, indirect light. Water: Let soil dry slightly between waterings.

Prayer Plant (Maranta leuconeura)

Closely related to Calatheas, this plant folds its leaves at night and has vibrant patterns - safe and eye-catching.

Light: Medium to bright indirect light. Water: Likes evenly moist soil and humidity.

Parlour Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

A graceful and pet-safe palm that works beautifully in lower-light areas of the home.

Light: Low to medium indirect light. Water: Water when top of soil is dry.

Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana)

Often grown in water, Lucky Bamboo is typically safe for pets in small amounts when not fertilised. Keep out of reach just to be cautious.

Light: Bright, indirect light. Water: Use clean, chlorine-free water and change regularly.

Haworthia

A tough, compact succulent that’s safe for pets and perfect for windowsills or small pots.

Light: Bright light with some direct sun. Water: Allow soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Phalaenopsis Orchids

Elegant, long-lasting flowers that brighten any room. Moth Orchids are non-toxic to pets and thrive in stable indoor conditions.

Light: Bright, filtered light. Water: Water weekly and allow to drain thoroughly.

Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior)

Tough as nails and one of the best plants for neglect or low light. Safe for pets and ideal for Tasmanian homes with cold draughts or darker rooms.

Light: Low to medium light; avoids direct sun. Water: Water when the top few centimetres of soil are dry. Very drought-tolerant.

Your Expert Retail Plant Nursery Guide to Seasonal Gardening

Wed, 16 Jul 2025 04:18:16 GMT

Calling all gardening enthusiasts in Hobart, Tasmania! Whether you’re a seasoned green thumb or just starting your gardening journey, Stoneman’s Garden Centre is here to help your garden thrive year-round. From expert planting advice to essential products from our Hobart Nursery and Garden Centre, this seasonal guide is your go-to resource for success in southern Tasmania’s unique climate. We will navigate the best planting practices throughout the year, ensuring your garden flourishes in every season.

Understanding Hobart’s Seasonal Gardening

Navigating through the seasons in Hobart can be effortless with the right planting strategies. We can help ensure your garden flourishes year-round by working with Tasmania’s cool temperate climate, distinct seasonal shifts, and varying soil types. Knowing what to plant and when can make all the difference.

Spring: Reinvigorate Your Garden

Spring in Hobart marks a time of new growth. It’s the season to focus on planting vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, and beans. These thrive in the rejuvenating spring weather. For floral enthusiasts, consider establishing natives like grevilleas and ornamentals such as marigolds. Proper soil preparation is critical. Enhance your soil with compost and organic matter from your local plant nursery retail shop to support young seedlings.

Remember to:

Plant Vegetables: Tomatoes, lettuce, and beans thrive. Start new lawns.
Add Colou r: Salvias or petunias for spring blooms.
Prepare Soil: Use compost and organic matter from our garden centre to boost nutrient levels.

Summer: Maintain and Protect

Summer in Hobart brings hotter, drier conditions that can challenge even the most established gardens. To keep your garden thriving, focus on drought-tolerant plants such as Australian native plants, lavender, succulents, and other heat-loving varieties, all available at Stoneman’s Garden Centre in Glenorchy, Hobart – talk to our friendly staff for plant recommendations for your garden.

Maintain a consistent watering schedule, preferably in the early morning or evening to reduce evaporation. Applying mulch is also essential—it helps retain soil moisture, regulates temperature, and suppresses weeds.

Pest control becomes increasingly important during summer. Use natural pest barriers or organic pesticides, which you can find at our Hobart plant nursery retail store, to protect your plants and encourage healthy growth.

With the right plants, proper care, and expert products and advice from Stoneman’s Garden Centre, your summer garden can flourish despite the heat.

Key Tasks Include:

Drought Tolerant Plants: Australian Natives, Lavender, succulents, and ornamental grasses to name a few.
Mulch: Retains moisture and suppresses weeds.
Watering: Stick to early mornings or evenings to reduce evaporation.
Pest Control: Use organic sprays or physical barriers available in-store.

Autumn: Prepare for Cooler Months

Autumn in Hobart is the perfect season to get your garden ready for a productive and colourful year ahead. As the temperatures cool, it's an ideal time to plant root vegetables like carrots, onions, and beetroot, which thrive in the mild conditions of southern Tasmania.

It’s also the best time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths. These bulbs establish well in autumn and will reward you with vibrant blooms as the weather warms.

Soil preparation is key to autumn gardening success. Boost your soil’s health and structure by adding organic fertilisers and compost, all available at Stoneman’s Garden Centre in Glenorchy, Hobart. Strong, nutrient-rich soil gives your plants the best foundation for growth.

As winter approaches, it's also important to stay on top of pest control. Regularly inspect your plants for signs of pests or disease and treat early using safe and effective products from your local plant nursery and garden care experts.

With the right preparation and products, your autumn garden will be set to thrive through the seasons.

Important Steps:

Root Vegetables: Plant carrots, beetroot and onions.
Spring Flower Bulbs: Tulips and daffodils go in now.
Soil Fertilisers: Use slow-release or organic fertilisers to support soil health.

Winter: Winter Gardening in Hobart: Bare Root Planting, Indoor Plants & Soil Prep

Winter in Hobart is a prime season for gardeners to get ahead. It’s the perfect time to plant bare root fruit trees, bare root roses, and bare root raspberry canes. These dormant plants establish strong root systems over winter, giving them the best start for a productive and healthy growing season in spring.

For outdoor winter colour, choose frost-hardy flowers like pansies, violas, and hellebores.

Indoors, brighten your space with low-maintenance favourites such as spider plants and peace lilies, ideal for cooler, low-light conditions. Protect your garden through the colder months by applying mulch and garden covers to insulate roots and stabilise soil temperatures. Winter is also the ideal time to improve soil health. Add compost, aged manure, and mulch to boost nutrients, enhance structure, and prepare your garden beds for spring planting.

Whether you’re planting bare root fruit trees, establishing raspberry canes, refreshing your indoor plant collection, or getting your soil in shape, now is the time to act.

Visit Stoneman’s Garden Centre in Hobart for premium bare root plants, expert advice, and everything you need to make the most of your winter gardening season.

Top Winter Tips:

Hardy Plants: Think pansies and cyclamen for colour, or indoor greens like spider plants.
Frost Protection: Use frost cloths or covers from our nursery.
Soil Conditioning: Apply compost and mulch to beds to prepare for spring growth.

Monthly Planting Calendar for Hobart, Tas, Gardens

Stay on top of your planting game with this month-by-month guide tailored for southern Tasmania:

January: Sow capsicum, cucumber, and corn. It’s the perfect time to start a Cottage Garden or Water Garden.
February: Water regularly and plant heat-tolerant flowers like succulents and grasses.
March: Begin planting spinach, broccoli, and Asian greens.
April: Time for spring bulbs—add daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths.
May: Plant kale, garlic, and collards.
June: Rosemary and other hardy herbs thrive now. The first of our bare root roses, fruit trees and raspberries arrive
July: Focus on prepping beds and indoor plants.
August: Sow spring seedlings indoors.
September : Early crops like peas and radishes go in. Plant hanging baskets. Start hedges.
October: Enrich your soil and plant summer perennials. It’s Tomato Time – start your crop now.
November: Quick-growing summer vegies like zucchinis take off.
December: Feed soil and plan for summer planting success. Plant chilli, capsicums and basil.

Pest Control Tips from Nursery Professionals

Pest Control Tips from Hobart’s Nursery Experts

A healthy garden is a pest-free garden. Keep your plants thriving with these simple practices:

Inspect Weekly: Early detection of aphids, caterpillars, and fungal issues is key.
Use Natural Solutions: Try neem oil or eco-friendly insecticidal soaps.
Introduce Beneficial Insects: Ladybirds and lacewings help keep pests down.
Space Plants Wisely: Improve airflow to reduce disease and insect build-up.

Soil Preparation Insights

Good soil equals great gardens. Improve your foundation with these expert steps:

Test Your Soil: Check pH and nutrient levels using test kits available in-store.
Add Organic Matter: Compost and worm castings enhance fertility.
Improve Drainage: Use sand or perlite to prevent waterlogging.
Seasonal Refresh: Apply fresh compost and mulch at the start of every season.

Get Everything You Need at Stoneman's Garden Centre

Located in Glenorchy, Stonemans Garden Centre is Hobart’s trusted local nursery. We offer:

A wide range of seasonal plants, seedlings, and advanced trees
A great range of beautiful indoor plants
Indoor and outdoor pots
Great giftware range
Outdoor water features and ponds
High-quality gardening supplies and tools
Bulk and Bagged Landscape supplies: soils, compost, manures, gravels and mulches
Pest and disease control products
Expert advice from passionate local horticulturists
Friendly, knowledgeable service—just ask us what’s thriving right now!

As a Weber Specialist Dealer, we offer exclusive Weber products, expert advice, and everything you need to get the most out of your BBQ experience. Shop Weber online here

Learn more about us

Visit Us, Call, Browse or Shop Online

Drop by our nursery in Hobart, call us on 03 6273 0611 , or visit our website at www.stonemans.com.au to explore our seasonal plant range and garden care solutions. You can even shop online at shop.stonemans.com.au

Whether you're after expert advice, premium supplies, or simply inspiration for your next garden project, Stoneman’s Garden Centre is here to help every step of the way.

Get inspired. Get growing.
Your best garden starts with quality plants, expert advice, and seasonal know-how from Stoneman's Garden Centre, Hobart’s leading retail plant nursery destination.

Blueberries

Tue, 08 Jul 2025 04:03:50 GMT

Growing Blueberries in Tasmania – A Delicious, Easy-Care Berry for Your Garden

Blueberries are one of the most rewarding fruiting shrubs you can grow — compact, attractive, and bursting with sweet, nutritious berries. Originally native to North America, blueberries have become a garden favourite in cool climate regions like Tasmania, where they thrive in well-drained, acidic soils and chilly winters.

Why Grow Blueberries?

Blueberries are high in antioxidants and an excellent source of vitamin C - perfect for fresh eating, baking, preserving, freezing, or making into jam. With the right care, a mature blueberry bush can produce up to 5 kilograms of fruit per season, making them a fantastic addition to your edible garden.

They’re also ornamental, offering lush foliage and often vibrant autumn colour, making them beautiful as well as bountiful.

Blueberry Growing Conditions in Tasmania

Blueberries are fast-growing deciduous or evergreen shrubs, depending on the variety. To get the best results:

Soil: Plant in acidic, peaty, well-drained soil. If your soil is alkaline or heavy, consider planting in raised beds or large containers using a specialty acid-loving potting mix.
Sunlight: Choose a spot with morning sun and protection from harsh afternoon sun or drying winds.
Watering: Blueberries are shallow-rooted, so they need consistent moisture, especially through summer. A thick mulch of pine bark, compost or straw will help retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Spacing: To ensure good air circulation, space bushes about 1.5 metres apart and avoid overcrowding.

Pruning Blueberries for Better Harvests

Once your blueberry plant has been in the ground for a couple of years, winter pruning becomes essential to maintain plant health and ensure an abundance of sweet, juicy berries.

Blueberries produce fruit on last season’s growth, so it’s important to encourage fresh new shoots each year. In winter, remove about a quarter of the oldest stems, cutting them back to a strong young shoot or, if the plant has plenty of new growth from the base, all the way to ground level. This allows light and air into the centre of the plant, helping to reduce disease and boost fruit production.

Trim back the remaining healthy stems by roughly one-third, and always remove any damaged, dead, or crossing branches.

For best results:

Use sharp, clean tools and disinfect between plants to avoid spreading disease.
Prune on a dry day to reduce the risk of fungal problems.
Don’t overdo it - removing too much at once can stress the plant. Aim to maintain a good balance of young and mature canes each season.

Regular pruning keeps your plant productive, tidy, and healthy - and rewards you with bigger, better harvests year after year.

Pollination & Harvesting

While blueberries are self-fertile and will produce fruit on their own, you’ll enjoy significantly larger harvests and better-quality berries if you plant two or more different varieties together. Cross-pollination between compatible varieties not only increases the number of berries, but also helps improve fruit size and flavour.

When it comes to picking, timing is everything. Blueberries may look ripe as soon as they turn blue, but for the best flavour and sweetness, it’s ideal to wait around 5 to 7 days after they first turn blue. When fully ripe, berries will come away from the stem easily with a gentle tug. If you have to pull or twist hard, they likely need more time to develop their full taste.

To extend your harvest throughout summer and into early autumn, we recommend planting a mix of early, mid, and late-season varieties. This way, you can enjoy fresh, homegrown blueberries over several months rather than all at once - perfect for daily picking, preserving, or freezing.

Popular Blueberry Varieties at Stonemans Garden Centre

We stock a great range of blueberry varieties, ideal for Tasmanian conditions:

Blue Rose – Large fruit, excellent autumn colour. Pick when fully ripe.

Blue Crop – Mid-season variety with very large, firm, and flavoursome fruit. Vigorous grower.

Brigitta – A taller grower (up to 2m), producing high yields from January to February.

Northland – Compact and spreading (around 1m), perfect for pots. Early season. Small berries great for baking.

Sunshine Blue – A small evergreen variety (approx. 1m), with high yields of plump, tasty fruit. Great for smaller gardens.

With new varieties arriving regularly, it’s worth trying something new alongside the trusted favourites - you might just discover a new go-to berry!

Start Growing Blueberries Today

Whether you’re planting in pots, garden beds or establishing a berry patch, blueberries are a low-maintenance, high-reward option for the home gardener. At Stoneman’s Garden Centre, we stock a wide range of blueberry plants, along with the composts, fertilisers, and expert advice you need to grow them successfully.

Visit us in-store or shop online and start enjoying homegrown blueberries - fresh from your garden!

Growing Rhubarb

Tue, 08 Jul 2025 02:12:26 GMT

How to Grow Rhubarb in Tasmania – A Winter Favourite for Every Garden

Rhubarb (Rheum x hybridum) is a hardy and rewarding herbaceous perennial vegetable that’s ideal for Tasmanian gardens. With its large, bold green leaves and vibrant red stalks, rhubarb adds both flavour and beauty to your vegie patch - perfect for garden beds, semi-shaded corners, and even awkward spaces where other edibles struggle to thrive.

Thriving in cool to cold climates, rhubarb typically grows to 70cm–1.5m high, spreading up to 1.5m wide, so give it plenty of space. It performs well in full sun or part shade, especially during hot summers, making it a versatile choice for many garden positions.

Planting Rhubarb Crowns in Winter

Winter is the best time to plant rhubarb crowns. While rhubarb can be grown from seed or seedlings, bare-root crowns offer a faster and more reliable start.

Choose a garden bed with well-drained, nutrient-rich soil, and prepare it by digging in aged compost or organic matter. Avoid using fresh manure, as it can be too acidic and may burn the developing roots.

Plant crowns 60–80cm apart, ensuring the buds sit just below the surface. After planting, apply a cup of general-purpose fertiliser per plant, water thoroughly, and mulch to help retain moisture.

Watering & Feeding

Rhubarb thrives on consistent moisture. It loves water, so regular watering is essential, especially during dry spells. Never allow the soil to dry out, as this will inhibit growth.

Feed the plant twice a year – once in late winter after pruning, and again in early summer – using aged manure , compost , or a balanced organic fertiliser . Rhubarb also responds well to regular composting throughout the growing season.

Seasonal Care & Pruning

In winter, once the leaves turn yellow, cut the foliage back to the crown and apply a fresh layer of mulch to keep the soil moist and protect the roots. Every 5–6 years, lift and divide the crown to rejuvenate the plant and encourage continued production.

Watch for common pests like snails, and avoid overwatering or planting in poorly drained soil to prevent crown rot.

Harvesting Tips

Allow rhubarb to establish for at least a year before harvesting heavily.
Harvest by taking the outer stalks and either twisting gently or cutting at ground level with a sharp knife.
Stop harvesting once the new stalks become thin – this means the crown needs time to replenish.
Important : Never eat the leaves, as they are toxic – but they are safe to compost.

A Decorative and Edible Delight

Rhubarb’s bold, dark green foliage and vivid red stems offer more than just flavour – they make rhubarb a beautiful ornamental plant. It’s ideal for semi-shade areas and works well in those hard-to-plant garden corners, combining aesthetics with productivity.

Cooking with Rhubarb – Sweet, Tart & Versatile

Rhubarb isn’t just easy to grow – it’s also a delicious kitchen staple! Its tart, fruity flavour makes it a favourite in:

Pies, crumbles, and tarts

Stewed compotes for topping porridge or yoghurt

Jams and chutneys

Homemade cordials and syrups

Even cocktails, like rhubarb gin or sparkling spritzers

Pair rhubarb with strawberries, apples, ginger, vanilla, or citrus for truly mouth-watering results.

Just remember: only the stalks are edible .

Grow Rhubarb with Confidence

At Stoneman’s Garden Centre, we stock top-performing rhubarb varieties like ‘Ever Red’ and ‘Giant Victoria’ – perfect for Tasmanian conditions. Whether you're refreshing your vegie patch or adding colour to your garden beds, rhubarb is a must-have for every cool-climate garden.

Visit us in-store and let our expert team help you get the most from your winter planting.

Growing Apples

Tue, 08 Jul 2025 00:29:22 GMT

Growing Apples in Tasmania – A Beginners Guide

Apples are one of the most rewarding fruit trees to grow, and Tasmania’s cool winters and mild summers provide ideal conditions for successful cultivation. With a little planning and care, you can enjoy an abundance of crisp, flavourful apples straight from your own garden.

Why Tasmania Is Ideal for Apples

While apples grow in many parts of Australia, Tasmania’s climate gives growers a real advantage. Most apple varieties bloom in mid-October, which helps avoid damage from late frosts - especially in all but the coldest regions.

Choosing the Right Spot

Apples need well-drained soil - soggy conditions in winter are a common cause of root issues. They thrive in full sun, but some varieties (like Granny Smith) will tolerate partial shade. Red-skinned apples need more sun to develop their colour properly.

Planting Tips

You can plant apples year-round, but the best selection is available in winter, when trees are sold bare-rooted at garden centres. Prepare your planting site with plenty of composted manure, organic matter, and a sprinkle of blood and bone or slow-release fertiliser. Water in well.

Prune newly planted trees back hard to encourage strong, healthy growth - but if you’re buying from Stoneman’s Garden Centre , there’s no need to worry! When you purchase your bare-root fruit trees from us, our expert team has already given them a professional first prune, so they’re ready to plant straight into your garden.

Standard trees are usually spaced 4-5 metres apart, but there are other options like espalier or step-over planting if space is limited.

Potted apple trees can be planted any time of year - just be sure to water them regularly.

Space-Saving Options

For smaller gardens or patios, dwarf apple trees are perfect in large containers like wine barrels. New columnar varieties grow to just 60cm wide, making them ideal for narrow beds, planter boxes, or courtyard spaces. Always use a premium potting mix, such as Stoneman’s Premium Potting Mix, to ensure good drainage and healthy root development.

Pollination & Fruit Set

Most apple trees will produce fruit on their own if conditions are right, but planting a compatible pollinator nearby will increase your crop size and quality. Some varieties, like Gravenstein and Mutsu, have sterile pollen and require a second variety for successful pollination.

Bee activity plays a vital role in this process, as bees transfer pollen between flowers. To encourage strong pollination, create a bee-friendly garden with other flowering plants nearby and avoid using insecticides during blossom time. More bees means better fruit set!

Feeding & Thinning for Better Fruit

Once your apple tree begins producing fruit, it’s important to support its health and productivity. Apply a quality fruit and citrus fertiliser or blood and bone with added potash (around 200g per tree) in early spring or after harvest to encourage strong growth and a reliable crop.

To get large, healthy apples and maintain regular harvests, proper fruit thinning is essential. When apples are about the size of a walnut, thin each cluster to leave just one fruit per bud, spacing them about 15cm apart. This helps prevent overcrowding and improves both size and quality.

Winter Pruning for Productivity

A few simple snips during winter can lead to a stronger, more fruitful apple tree in the growing season ahead. Apple trees bear most of their fruit on short spurs found on two-year-old wood, so winter pruning is all about shaping the tree while preserving these productive branches. Always use sharp, clean tools, and disinfect them between plants to help prevent the spread of disease.

Five Simple Winter Pruning Steps for Healthy Apple Trees

Winter is the ideal time to shape your apple tree and set it up for a productive season. Follow these straightforward steps to keep your tree healthy, manageable, and fruiting well:

Reduce Tree Size – Trim back any overly long or hard-to-reach branches to make future pruning easier and keep the tree more compact.
Open Up the Centre – Remove any upright or vigorous shoots growing into the centre of the tree to allow better airflow and sunlight to reach all parts of the canopy.
Remove Crossing or Crowded Branches – If branches are rubbing, crossing, or growing too close together, choose the stronger one to keep and remove the rest to prevent damage and improve structure.
Cut Out Damaged or Diseased Wood – Prune away any branches that are dead, broken, or show signs of disease, cutting back to healthy wood.
Thin Fruiting Spurs – On older trees, reduce the number of fruiting spurs to avoid overcrowding and promote larger, better-quality fruit in the next harvest.

With just a little winter maintenance, your apple tree will reward you with strong growth and an abundant crop.

Popular Apple Varieties in Tasmania

Bramley – Large, tart green apple. The world’s most popular cooking apple.
Cox’s Orange Pippin – Superb flavour. Yellow with red stripes. Mid-season.
Crofton – Excellent flavour. Sweet, crisp red apple. Late season.
Gala – Mid-season, red-striped apple with excellent flavour. Good keeper.
Golden Delicious – Mid-season. Sweet, golden skin. Great pollen donor.
Gravenstein – Very early season. Needs a pollinator. Best when picked promptly.
Granny Smith – Crisp, tart green apple. Great for storage. Late season.
Jonagold – Golden Delicious × Jonathan. Excellent crisp flavour.
Jonathan – Juicy, aromatic and crisp. Mid-season favourite.
Lady in the Snow (Pomme de Neige) – Early, red apple with snow-white flesh.
Pink Lady – Late ripening. Crisp, juicy, and full of flavour.
Red Delicious – Large, sweet and aromatic. Mid-season.
Red Fuji – Maroon-skinned, late-season apple. Excellent flavour and stores well.

Visit Stoneman’s Garden Centre to explore our wide range of bare-rooted and potted apple trees — from classic heirloom favourites to space-saving modern varieties. Whether you're planting an orchard or a single tree in a courtyard, we’ll help you choose the perfect fit for your garden.

Shop in-store or online and let us help make your apple-growing journey a fruitful success!

Caring for Houseplants in Winter

Fri, 20 Jun 2025 00:59:29 GMT

Keep Your Indoor Jungle Thriving Through a Tassie Winter

Winter in Tasmania means crisp mornings, short daylight hours, and the heater working overtime. While we enjoy the chance to slow down, our indoor plants need a little extra care to cope with the seasonal shift. With a few thoughtful tweaks, you can keep your houseplants happy, healthy, and pest-free all winter long.

Make the Most of Limited Light

Tasmania’s shorter, often cloudier days mean less natural light for indoor plants.
Move your plants to bright, north-facing windows where they’ll get the most sun.
Avoid direct contact with cold window glass, which can damage leaves - especially during frosty nights.
Rotate pots weekly to encourage even growth.
Clean both windows and leaves to maximise light absorption.
Consider a small LED grow light if natural light is really scarce.

Water with Care

In cooler Tassie homes, plant growth slows - so it’s easy to overwater.

Check soil before watering - only water when the top couple of centimetres are dry.
Use room-temperature water to avoid shocking cold roots.
Good drainage is essential - don’t let pots sit in saucers full of water.
Use trays of pebbles or group plants to help create a micro-humid environment indoors.

Common Winter Pests in Tassie Homes

Even in winter, indoor plants can attract pests. Keep an eye out for:

�� Spider Mites

Thrive in dry air. Look for webbing under leaves and tiny yellow dots.
Rinse plants under a lukewarm shower and wipe leaves with Leaf Cleaning Gloves .
Follow up with an organic spray like Protect .

�� Mealybugs

Appear as white, fluffy clusters on stems and leaves.
Wipe or scrape off with gloves, then treat the area thoroughly with Scale Gun , Pest Oil or White Oil . Be sure to thoroughly wash and clean your gloves.

�� Scale

Look like small, brownish lumps on leaves and stems.
Scrape gently and use a suffocating leaf spray to prevent further spread.

�� Fungus Gnats

These annoying flying insects love soggy potting mix.
Let soil dry out between waterings, trap adults with Gnat Traps , and spritz the soil with a natural spray like Protect to combat the underlying fungus.
Once the soil has dried you can also apply Gnat Off - a great product which naturally discourages fungus gnats from egg laying by creating a physical barrier over the soil and keeping the surface dry.

Quarantine New Arrivals

Bringing new plants home from your favourite Tassie nursery? Keep them separate for a week or two to make sure they’re pest-free before introducing them to your indoor collection.

Embrace the Slow Season

Skip the fertiliser until spring returns.
Avoid repotting unless absolutely necessary - plants are semi-dormant.
Give your houseplants a spa day: clean dusty leaves, check for pests, and enjoy their company!

Final Thought

Tasmanian winters are cool and cosy - but your houseplants need a little help to enjoy the season too. With the right care, they’ll continue to brighten your home all winter, ready to bounce back with fresh growth in spring.

So rug up, keep an eye on your indoor garden, and let your plants rest well this Tassie winter.

The Benefits of House Plants

Thu, 12 Jun 2025 04:28:28 GMT

The Surprising Benefits of Houseplants: Why You Should Bring More Green Into Your Home

In an age when we’re constantly plugged in and surrounded by screens, it’s no wonder so many people are turning to nature for balance. One of the simplest, most accessible ways to bring a bit of the outdoors into your daily life is by adding houseplants to your living space. Beyond their aesthetic appeal, houseplants offer a range of physical, mental, and even emotional benefits. Whether you're a seasoned plant parent or a newbie with a single succulent, here’s why growing greenery indoors is more than just a trend.

1. They Purify the Air

Houseplants do more than look good on a shelf - they help clean the air you breathe. Plants like spider plants, snake plants, and peace lilies can remove toxins such as formaldehyde, benzene, and carbon monoxide. While the effect is modest in a typical home, every little bit helps, especially in urban environments where indoor air can become stale and polluted.

2. They Boost Your Mood

Research has shown that interacting with plants can reduce stress, anxiety, and depression. The simple act of caring for a plant—watering, pruning, or even talking to it - can foster a sense of routine and mindfulness. Greenery has a calming effect on the mind and can help lift your mood on tough days.

3 . They Improve Focus and Productivity

Adding a plant or two to your workspace can actually improve your concentration and memory. Studies suggest that being around plants increases alertness and helps people stay focused for longer periods. That makes houseplants not just a nice desk accessory, but a smart productivity tool for anyone working or studying from home.

4. They Add Humidity and Reduce Dust

Plants naturally release moisture vapor during photosynthesis, which can help humidify indoor air - especially beneficial during dry winters. This added humidity can reduce the incidence of dry skin, sore throats, and respiratory discomfort.

Some plants also help reduce dust in the home by trapping airborne particles on their leaves.

5. They Beautify and Personalise Your Space

Plants are a great way to express your personal style. Whether you prefer modern minimalism with sleek, sculptural succulents or a lush, jungle-like vibe with ferns and monsteras, there’s a plant for every aesthetic. They bring warmth, color, and life to any room, making a house feel like a home.

6. They Encourage Responsibility and Routine

Caring for plants fosters a sense of responsibility and helps build routine into your day. For children or those seeking to cultivate more self-discipline, having a few houseplants is a gentle and rewarding way to develop consistency and care.A good plant will brighten your mood, freshen the air and bring life to every corner of your home. Today, we’ll share our favourite picks for top indoor plants that excel at purifying the air, lifting your mood and creating a serene ambience. We’ll also share tips on picking and caring for your leafy friends.

Children and Indoor Plants: Growing Together

Children benefit immensely from growing up around indoor greenery. Plants naturally spark curiosity - they invite questions, exploration, and hands-on learning. Through caring for a plant, kids begin to understand that living things need water, light, and attention to thrive. It’s a gentle, powerful way to teach responsibility and patience.

Over time, they learn to respect the cycle of growth and change in nature - how things grow, bloom, fade, and renew. It’s a lesson that extends far beyond the pot.

When you bring a plant home from Stoneman’s, you’re not just adding to your décor - you’re welcoming a small piece of the natural world into your family life. You create opportunities for shared moments: pausing to notice a new leaf, remembering to water together, or simply admiring the quiet beauty of something alive. It’s a simple act that encourages mindfulness, connection, and care - for kids and grown-ups alike.

At Stoneman we offer a fantastic range of house plants , plant care essentials , and stylish pots and baskets to suit every home or office. Whe ther you're after something classic, modern, or a little bit quirky, you'll find the perfect pieces to complement your space.

Planting Bare Root Trees and Roses

Fri, 06 Jun 2025 06:28:56 GMT

A Simple Guide for Winter Success

Bare root trees and roses are a fantastic, cost-effective way to establish new plants in your garden - but proper planting is key to their success. Here’s a step-by-step guide to give them the best start.

1. Prepare the Soil

Enrich your soil by digging in organic matter like Gardener’s Friend Compost and Moo Poo to boost nutrients and structure.

2. Hydrate the Planting Hole

Fill the hole with water and let it drain completely. This helps settle the soil and ensures the roots aren’t going into dry ground.

3. Check and Trim the Roots

Before planting, check roots and trim any that are damaged or excessively long using clean secateurs.

4. Stake If Needed

If the area is exposed to strong winds, stake the tree and tie with Jolly Tree Ties to support growth and prevent wind rock.

5. Plant at the Correct Depth

Place the tree or rose so the original soil line on the trunk is level with the ground.
��DO NOT bury the graft union. (Exception: Lilacs can be planted slightly deeper.)

6. Water and Mulch

Water thoroughly after planting. Then mulch with straw or compost to retain moisture and reduce weeds.

TOP TIP

Label your plant while it’s fresh in your memory - you’ll thank yourself next season!

Growing Asparagus

Fri, 06 Jun 2025 02:38:51 GMT

A long term investment for Springtime Delights

Asparagus is a springtime favourite, prized for its tender spear s and d istinct flavour. While it may take a few years of patience before you enjoy your first harvest, the payoff is a bountiful crop that returns year after year with proper care. Whether you're new to growing asparagus or looking to refine your technique, here's everything you need to know to cultivate this perennial delicacy successfully.

Starting Out

Although asparagus can be grown from seed, most gardeners opt to plant two-year-old crowns in winter for quicker and more reliable results. These crowns are typically from male plants, which are more productive and yield consistent crops.

One of the most common and dependable varieties available is Mary Washington.

Preparation

Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil. Asparagus thrives in rich, fertile beds that are high in organic matter .

Avoid areas that remain soggy during winter - excess moisture can lead to crown rot.

To prepare the bed:

Clear the area thoroughly of weeds.
Dig in plenty of compost and/or well-rotted manure .
Ensure excellent drainage to protect the crowns.

Planting Crowns the Right Way

Create trenches about 30cm wide by 15–20cm deep along the row.
Form small mounds of soil at the bottom and spread the roots over them.
Plant crowns 30–50cm apart to give them ample room to grow.
Start by covering the crowns with 5–7cm of soil. As the shoots emerge, gradually fill in the trench until it’s level with the ground.

* Important: Be careful not to cover the new shoots completely as they begin to emerge.

Care and Maintenance

Keep the soil evenly moist, particularly in the first two years while plants establish. Add a thick layer of mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds .

Feed generously with a high-nitrogen fertiliser throughout summer to promote healthy fern growth. Once the fern turns yellow in winter, cut it back to ground level and fertilise again in late winter to boost spring regrowth.

TOP TIP

Hilling Up for White Spears

To produce highly prized white asparagus (it makes the most delicious soup!), mound soil 25–30 cm high over the rows in winter. As the spear tips begin to break the surface, cut them about 15 cm below the soil line. The lack of sunlight prevents chlorophyll development, resulting in pale, tender spears.

Patience Pays Off: Harvesting Asparagus

Varieties to Try

Mary Washington: A classic, reliable green variety commonly sold in nurseries.
Purple Asparagus : A vibrant purple variety packed with anthocyanins. Best enjoyed raw or lightly cooked to preserve its unique colour (overcooking turns it green).

Growing asparagus requires time and care, but the reward is a low-maintenance perennial crop that delivers delicious spring harvests for up to 20 years. With the right preparation and a bit of patience, you’ll be serving up fresh, homegrown asparagus that far outshines anything store-bought.

Happy gardening!

Growing Gorgeous Paeonies

Wed, 04 Jun 2025 05:16:52 GMT

How to Plant, Grow, and Love Your Paeonies

Paeonies (or Peonies, depending on where you come from ) are one of the most romantic plants in the world.

They are also called Chinese Peony & Peony Rose although they are not related to Roses at all however their large rose-like, fragrant flowers make them a favourite the world over. They are rare and difficult plants to grow, so are a triumph for any gardener when grown well. They are mostly used for perennial borders because of their profusion of bloom and their attractive foliage which is tinged a bronze/maroon colour in spring, becomes green as the spring progresses.

Paeonies come in 2 forms: Herbaceous Paeonies which grow to approximately 1 metre tall, and Tree Paeonies which can grow up to 2-3m high). Peonies flower from late spring to summer and die down over winter, sending up new shoots each spring. Chinese herbaceous peonies are among the world's oldest garden plants.

HERBACIOUS PAEONIES

Herbaceous paeony tubers are generally available in early spring. Potted specimens can be purchased at different times throughout the year (depending on availability from growers).

They love well-drained soil with plenty of added organic matter and prefer a lightly alkaline soil (ideal pH is around 7-7.5).

If you have acidic soil, add some dolomite lime to your planting hole.

*You can purchase a Soil Testing Kit in-store or bring a soil sample into us to be tested.

Plant your Paeonies in a sheltered position as wind can damage the flower stems and hot sun will scorch flowers. Paeony tuber crowns should be set 2-3cm below the surface of the soil taking care not to damage any new growth buds or roots.

*Apply mulch around the base of the plant (make sure not to touch the main stem) to help protect the roots.

*Spent flowers should be removed regularly. Allow leaves to die down naturally in autumn before cutting back in late autumn.

*You can divide tuber clumps in early autumn when the plant is entering dormancy if you wish but the clump can be left undisturbed for many years without causing any problems.

If growing paeonies for cut flowers you should break off the side buds so that each stem only has one main bud. This will ensure you have larger, more beautiful blooms. Flowers should be cut when the bud is still a tightly packed ball - they will open up over the next day or two and will last in water for up to a week.

TREE PAEONIES

Tree peonies are harder grow. We recommend you plant in raised garden beds as they provide good drainage, which is essential. As with her-baceous peonies, add some dolomite lime when planting - this is essential for all peonies to grow well.

They will grow in the sun but do best in a protected spot as they cannot withstand the scorching sun and also require protection from the wind as stems can snap in strong wind.

Mulch to protect root zone.

Recommended varieties that are thought to be easier to grow:

'Souvenir de Maxime Cornu' also known as 'Kinshe' - large, full double yellow tipped with orange

'Happy Days' - yellow flower

'Black Panther' - black-red flower

'Thunderbolt' - dark red flower

MEDICINAL USES OF PAEONIES

The root and bark of several peony species have been used in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries.

The chemical paeoniflorin, is contained in the bark of the plant and is believed to be useful in controlling bleeding, diarrhoea and intestinal diseases as well as reducing spasms and lowering temperatures.

Some European countries use peony flowers to make a tea for use as a cough remedy, as well as a treatment for haemorrhoids and varicose veins. - quite a diverse range there!

It's a little bit Chilli!

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 10:06:22 GMT

Spice up your life!

Chillies are a fun crop to grow. They are very decorative and don’t take up a lot of space, so it’s easy to grow a selection of different varieties in a season.

Chillies originated in South America, and have spread throughout the world in the last 500 years or so. They are now an integral part of the cuisine of many different countries. The fruit usually starts out green and can be harvested at this stage. If left to ripen on the plant, the fruit will turn yellow, orange, purple, black or red, depending on the variety. The colorful, fully ripe fruit is generally hotter and has a more intense flavour than the green ones.

Chillies enjoy similar conditions to tomatoes and capsicum. A warm, sunny position in a pot or garden bed is ideal. They don’t need much in the way of care and attention. They are a warm season plant and can look a bit shabby during winter. We recommend to trim it back quite hard and let them re-shoot in spring.

Chillies make good companions for eggplant, cucumber, tomato, okra, squash, basil, oregano and parsley. They also like geraniums, petunias, lovage, carrots and onions. Keep them away from beans, broccoli, cabbage and fennel.

There are many different varieties of Chillies with a diverse range of flavours and heat levels, each offering its own distinctive taste and heat level. Trinidad Scorpion Chillies are one of the world's hottest chillies and are not for the faint hearted. Use extreme caution when handling & eating raw.

Habaneros are very hot and have an interesting lantern shape which might be orange, red, yellow or brown when ripe. Also up there at the dangerous end of the heat scale is the Birds Eye, a short, tapered, red chili that is only about 2-3cm long. The bush grows to about 1-1.5m tall and bears prolifically.

At the mild end of the heat scale, you will find the Sweet Temptation. If you like something with a bit of bite, you might enjoy the Jalapenos. They are cylindrically shaped, about 5-8cm long, and turn from dark green to red when ripe.

Be careful when handling chillies, as the juice can be highly irritating to the skin and the eyes. If you are handling lots, or if you have sensitive skin, consider wearing gloves for protection.

If you end up with too many chillies, you can pickle them, just as you would pickle onions or cucumbers. That way, you can continue enjoying chilies during winter, when your plants are not in fruit. Some varieties can also be dried and stored for long periods.

Growing Cabbages at Home

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 10:02:56 GMT

Cabbages are a fantastic winter crop and are perfect for adding to soups, stews, and salads. Cabbages are planted from seeds or seedlings as the cooler season begins.

How to Grow Cabbage Successfully in Your Garden

Cabbage is a versatile, cool-season vegetable that’s easy to grow and packed with nutrients. Whether you're planting in a dedicated veggie patch or a raised bed, choosing the right variety and preparing your soil well will set you up for a productive and rewarding harvest. Here's everything you need to know about growing cabbage in Tasmania and other cool-climate regions.

Choosing the Right Cabbage Variety for Your Garden

When it comes to growing cabbage, selecting the right variety is key. Different types offer unique flavours, textures, and culinary uses — making it easy to find one (or several) that suit your garden and your kitchen.

White (Cannonball) Cabbage – A classic and compact variety, White Cabbage forms tight, round heads and is known for its reliability and crisp texture. It’s perfect for coleslaw, stir-fries, or steaming.
Savoy Cabbage – Easily recognised by its deeply crinkled leaves, Savoy has a mild, sweet flavour and tender texture, making it an excellent choice for fresh salads and light sautés.
Red Cabbage – With its striking purple-red colour, this variety adds a vibrant splash to dishes. It has a slightly peppery flavour and is ideal for pickling, roasting, or shredding into slaws.
Chinese Cabbage – This group includes Bok Choy and Pak Choy, fast-growing varieties widely used in Asian cooking. These cabbages are perfect for stir-fries, soups, and steamed vegetable dishes.

For continuous harvests, consider planting a mix of early, mid, and late-season varieties.

Preparing the Soil for Cabbage

Cabbage prefers well-drained, fertile soil enriched with organic matter. Taking time to properly prepare your garden bed will give your seedlings the best chance at thriving.

Start by digging over the soil, breaking up any clumps and removing weeds, rocks, or old roots.
Incorporate compost or well-rotted manure to boost soil structure and nutrient content.
Add a handful of blood and bone to each planting area to supply essential nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorus, which support leafy growth.
Aim for a soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8. If your soil is too acidic, applying a little garden lime can help balance it out.

Tip: Cabbage is a heavy feeder, so the richer the soil, the better your results.

Planting Cabbage Seedlings

Once your soil is prepared and the weather is right (cool and mild is best), it’s time to plant:

Space seedlings around 30–40cm apart to give each plant enough room to form a full head.
Water them in well after planting to settle the soil around the roots.
To reduce transplant shock and encourage strong early growth, apply a seaweed-based tonic such as Seasol at planting and again after a week or two.

Position your cabbages in a full sun location, but keep an eye out for pests such as cabbage moths or aphids — especially in spring and early summer.

Tips for a Thriving Cabbage Crop

Mulch around plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Keep plants well-watered, especially during dry spells — cabbage heads can split if the watering is inconsistent.
Rotate crops each year to avoid soil-borne diseases and nutrient depletion.
Consider using a light netting or mesh to protect young seedlings from insect pests.

Caring for Your Cabbages

To ensure that your cabbages grow healthy and strong, there are a few things you will need to do. Firstly, you will need to water your cabbages regularly. Although cabbages are grown through winter, the soil needs to remain moist so be sure you give them a good soaking during dry periods.

You will also need to protect your cabbages from pests and diseases. Common cabbage pests include cabbage white butterflies, aphids, and caterpillars. To prevent these pests from damaging your plants, you can cover them with a fine mesh netting. You can also use organic pest control methods such as neem oil or pyrethrum spray.

Find Quality Cabbage Seedlings at Stoneman’s Garden Centre

At Stoneman’s Garden Centre, we stock a wide variety of cabbage seedlings, including popular traditional and Asian greens, all suited to our Tasmanian climate. We also offer organic composts, fertilisers, and expert advice to help you grow your most successful vegie crop yet.

Visit us in-store or shop online today and get your winter vegetable garden off to a strong, leafy start!

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Add some colour & life to your summer garden

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:59:49 GMT

Bring the Wow to Your Summer Garden

It’s a common belief that gardens lose their charm once spring fades—but your garden can be just as vibrant and full of life in summer and beyond. At Stoneman’s, we’re passionate about colour year-round, and right now we have an incredible selection of summer-flowering perennials that thrive through the warmer months and return even stronger year after year.

Whether you're entertaining alfresco or simply enjoying your garden at dusk, these stunning performers will light up your landscape.

Summer Stars to Try

Agastache (Hummingbird Mint)
Add bold colour and fragrance with varieties like Agastache ‘Sweet Lili’, a standout Aussie hybrid with apricot-blushed amethyst blooms, or Agastache ‘Blue Boa’ with its deep violet-blue flower spikes.

Coneflowers (Echinacea & Rudbeckia)
A must for summer gardens!

Rudbeckia laciniata towers up to 2m with golden petals and dark centres.
Echinacea ‘Rich Red’ opens in vibrant orange-red, deepening to a sultry crimson.
Echinacea ‘Magnus Superior’ boasts huge pink blooms, while ‘Double Decker’ surprises with quirky two-tiered flowers.

Globe Thistle (Echinops ritro ‘Taplow Blue’)
Bee magnets and fantastic cut flowers, their spiky blue orbs bring striking texture and structure to garden beds.

Sea Holly (Eryngium ‘Oxford Blue’)
Perfect for coastal or dry inland gardens, this tough perennial features dramatic steely blue blooms and spiky foliage adored by beneficial insects.

Pink Statice (Limonium peregrinum)
A true survivor—heat- and frost-tolerant with delicate papery pink flowers perfect for drying and feeding late-season pollinators.

Grasses: Movement & Texture

No modern perennial garden is complete without ornamental grasses.

Panicum ‘Iron Maiden’ is a standout Aussie variety with steel-blue foliage, purple tips, and soft fawn flower heads that glow in late light.
Miscanthus ‘Kleine Fontane’ (Little Fountain) features elegant green blades with silver midribs and soft, airy plumes.
Miscanthus ‘Gold Bar’ offers striking striped foliage for bold contrast.

More to Love

Queen of the Meadow (Filipendula palmata nana) floats fairy-floss pink blooms above delicate foliage—a whimsical favourite of bees.
Veronicastrum (Culver’s Root) brings height and elegance. Try ‘Lavendelturm’ for soft mauve spikes or Veronicastrum sibiricum for a cool, icy blue accent.

At Stoneman’s, you’ll also find a wide variety of summer-flowering perennials to suit every garden style—from bold and bright to soft and romantic. Whether you're looking for drought-tolerant natives, pollinator magnets, or structural grasses, our nursery is bursting with inspiration to keep your garden thriving through summer and beyond. Come in and explore the full range!

Now is the perfect time to plant these summer stunners. Not only will they bring lasting beauty and structure to your garden, but they’ll also create a haven for bees, butterflies, and other important pollinators.

At Stoneman’s, our friendly and knowledgeable team is here to help you choose the perfect plants for your space, offering expert advice to ensure your garden thrives.

Let your garden sizzle with colour, texture, and life — only at Stonemans.

How to grow Herbs

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:55:17 GMT

Easy and Rewarding Herb Gardens

Growing food at home is very popular and whatever form your garden may take, herbs are easy to grow and very rewarding. Fresh or dried, herbs add zest to cooking, perfume the house and have natural medicinal and cosmetic benefits. Craft making with herbs has wide appeal. Create Pot pourri, Tussie mussies and infused Vinegars from your own garden.

Putting it Together

So very versatile, the herb garden can be formal like a circular bed with an ornamental centre piece, or as informal as a rockery. Plant them throughout the garden, mixed in with vegetables, or the flower border and even between paving stones. The smallest living spaces can accommodate a few herbs in pots on a windowsill, the porch steps, and a window box or in a hanging basket.

Here’s a selection of edible herbs to get you started:

 Planting in dry places

• Basil – Traditionally used in Italian cooking. Spicy and pungent, it is delicious with tomatoes, vegies, pasta & salads.
• Dill – delicate anise flavoured leaves that combine well with fish and vegetables. The seeds can be used in pickles and breads.
• Garlic – The pungent aroma enhances many styles of cuisine. Well known in French & Mediterranean cooking it also has remarkable medicinal properties.
• Marjoram – Traditionally used in mixed herbs. Good addition for savoury dishes, tomatoes, meats.
• Oregano – Similar to marjoram. Add to pasta, pizza, tomatoes, meats, dressings.
• Sage – Traditionally used for meat stuffings. Good for drying
• Tarragon (French) – Good accompaniment to chicken, fish, and vegetable dishes and herb vinegar.
• Thyme – Garden and Lemon thyme are invaluable additions to savoury dishes, meat dishes, soups, salads, vegetables and baking. There are many other ornamental varieties.

• Curry Leaf Plant – Popular in Indian and South-East Asian cooking, its aromatic leaves are used to flavour curries, lentils, and rice dishes. Thrives in warm, dry conditions once established.

Planting in damp places

• Chives – Delicate onion flavour used in savoury dishes, salads and as a garnish for soup.
• Chervil – Delicate aniseed flavour good for enhancing fish and egg dishes.
• Coriander – Spicy and intense, invaluable for curry dishes.
• Fennel – Delicious flavour for fish or meats—raw or braised
• Mint – Used traditionally with potatoes, peas, lamb. Also refreshing in salads and as a garnish for fruits and summer drinks.
• Parsley - Its' refreshing flavour is widely used in savoury sauces, meat dishes, soups, salads, baking and garnishes

Site, Soil and Planting

Dry tolerant herbs require a sunny position with well-drained soil. Herbs requiring damp conditions will grow in sun or semi shade. Work a good organic fertiliser into the soil prior to planting. The addition of compost prior to planting will also be beneficial.

Herbs for other uses:

There are many other herbs for many purposes. Listed below are a few examples:

Ornamental

• Basil, purple – A striking colour contrast
• Catmint – Misty lavender flowers. Lovely under roses
• Curry Plant – Silver leaves, rich scent
• Hyssop – Ideal for low hedges
• Savoury – Fragrant evergreen, ideal for edgings

Lawns of delicious fragrance
• Chamomile: Soft-textured foliage with calming-scented flowers that attract beneficial insects

• Thyme – Purple, White, Woolly, are just a few of the carpeting Thymes

• Creeping Thyme: Fragrant, drought-tolerant groundcover that releases a lovely scent when stepped on.

• Oregano: Aromatic herb perfect for cooking and softening garden paths with light foot traffic tolerance.

• Pennyroyal mint – Crisp peppermint smell

These herbs offer fragrant foliage and are soft underfoot when grown around paths or stepping stones.

* These herbs require replanting with new plants each year.

When to plant Herbs

When putting an herb garden together it may be difficult to buy all the plants at one time as many are seasonal and only available at certain times.

Planting can be done whenever plants are available provided regular watering is carried out in summer.

After Care

• Trim after flowering to keep compact, bushy and to encourage new growth.
• Water as required in summer. Mulch in early spring and autumn.
• Feed with a quality high quality fertiliser in early spring.

Harvesting

For the best flavour and fragrance, harvest herbs in the morning once the dew has dried. If you're growing culinary herbs, planting them close to the kitchen makes for easy, everyday use.

Different herbs have different needs - create pockets in the garden using stones for those that prefer dry conditions, and enrich the soil with organic matter for moisture-loving varieties.

Herbs are incredibly versatile and can be grown in a wide range of containers, making them perfect for balconies, patios, or tucked into your existing garden beds.

At Stoneman’s, we offer a fantastic range of herbs to suit every garden and kitchen. From classic favourites like basil, parsley, and thyme to more unique varieties, our herbs are fresh, healthy, and perfect for growing in pots, garden beds, or kitchen planters. Whether you're after culinary staples, soothing teas, or fragrant foliage, you'll find quality herbs and friendly advice to help you grow your own at Stoneman’s.

Growing Callistemons

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:49:48 GMT

Learn How to Grow Callistemons with Stoneman's

Callistemons or Bottlebrushes are one of the hardiest Australian native plants. The bright bottlebrush shaped flowers a very impressive part of the spring landscape and are a delight for native birds and bees. The original Callistemons available to gardeners were all bold red but flower colours now range from red to pink, mauve, cream and green.

Common name: Bottlebrush. The name derives from the plant’s flowers, which look like the brushes for cleaning bottles.

Botanic name: Callistemon spp. The name is derived from the Greek words kallos, meaning beauty, and stemon meaning stamen, describing the beautiful coloured stamens which is the showy part of the flowers.

Best climate: Bottlebrush grow in almost all areas of Australia other than the driest and coldest regions.

Uses and Benefits

Sensational spring colour.
Great hedging and screening plants.
Attractive new growth on many varieties.
Extremely hardy and long lived – up to 40+ years in the right climatic and growing conditions.
Low maintenance
Will grow in a wide range of conditions from damp, poorly drained through to dry sandy soils.
Dwarf varieties are available
Bird attracting

Our range is everchanging - check with us instore to see what varieties we have available.

There are many varieties of Callistemons. Below are some of the popular home garden varieties:

C. ‘Better John’ – Small shrub under 1m with grey-green foliage and dark red brushes.

C.‘Candy Pink’ – Medium shrub to 4m that flowers all year with large dark pink brushes.
C. ‘Dawson River Weeper’ – Bright red flowering small tree to 6m.
C. ‘Endeavour’ – Hardy dense shrub 2.5m x 2.5m with long brilliant red flowers.
C. ‘Great Balls of Fire’ – 1m shrub with spectacular red new foliage that makes for a great hedge.
C. ‘Hannah Ray’ – Weeping 4-5m shrub that flowers in spring and again in Autumn.
C. ‘Hot Pink’ – Very bright pink flowering round compact shrub 1.5 – 2m.
C. ‘Kings Park Special’ – Beautiful medium sized shrub to 4m.
C. ‘Little John’ – Small shrub under 1.5m with grey-green foliage and dark red brushes.
C. 'Mary McKillop' - Long flowering, bright red flowers. Great as a hedge or screen.
C. ‘Purple Cloud’ – rounded shrub to 2m high by 2m wide with purple flowers.
C. 'Slim' – Uright growing callistemon. great for hedges. 3m H x 1.2 W.
C. ‘Taree Pink’ – 3m shrub with showy pink new growth in spring and pink flowers.
C. ' Viminalis Slim' - Fast growing, slender & carefree callistemon. Suitable for hedges and screens. Frost hardy.

C. ‘White Anzac’ – 1.5m shrub with white flowers requiring pruning after flowering.
C. ‘Wildfire’ – rounded shrub to 2m high by 2m wide with slightly pendulous branches. Showy red clusters of bright flowers.

Plant Care

Prune after flowering to encourage bushy new growth and prevent build up of spent seed pods.
Fertilise with a Native Plants fertiliser during early spring and in autumn.
Water deeply during extended dry periods.

Growing Food in Containers

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:45:44 GMT

Growing Food in Containers

With house blocks becoming smaller and homes becoming larger, the garden for many people looks much different to the gardens of the past. The garden may be a small backyard, a courtyard or an apartment balcony. Small areas do not mean that you need to miss out on the pleasures of growing your own food. There have been fantastic ranges small growing fruiting trees developed that are perfect for pots and small garden spaces.

There are now a number of varieties of dwarf citrus trees that are extremely popular and ideally suited for pots and containers on balconies or courtyards. Lovely sweetly-scented blossoms with lots of full-size fruit produced over a long fruiting season. Dwarf growing Tahitian Limes are also perfect for pots and small garden areas. Limes are an excellent source of Vitamin C and are popular in Asian cooking, drinks, seafood dishes, chicken, meats, desserts, cakes, biscuits and marmalade. Now it is possible to grow your own limes at home, no matter what your garden looks like.

There are also many varieties of dwarf deciduous fruiting trees such as Apples, Cherries, Nectarines, Peaches and Plums that will begin to arrive soon for planting during the winter months. These are excellent for growing fresh and healthy food at home in smaller spaces.

Many herbs and vegetables can be grown in pots or bowls. A selection of edible favourites planted together is a convenient way to ensure a constant fresh and tasty harvest with only a few steps to the kitchen.

Strawberries and blueberries are also excellent to grow in pots. Strawberries in hanging baskets are a fabulous way to grow these delicious delights while taking advantage of your available spaces. Blueberries are one of the most antioxidant rich foods in the world. They are packed with fibre, vitamins, minerals including Manganese, vitamin C, iron and potassium. They are so good for you and easily grown in pots at home.

Always use a premium quality potting mix when growing any plants in pots. Premium potting mix has the correct blend of fast and slow acting fertiliser and water retention granules to ensure the very best results.

By growing in pots, whatever your garden looks like, it is possible to fresh and healthy food at home.

Potted Herbs & Vegies – The Gift That Keeps on Growing

Potted herbs and vegies are a wonderful choice for gardeners, foodies, or anyone who loves fresh, homegrown produce. They’re so easy to make - just choose a few healthy plants, pop them in a nice pot with quality potting mix, and you’ve got a beautiful, edible gift ready to go.

Perfect for balconies, patios, or kitchen windowsills, it’s a living gift that’s both useful and full of flavour!

Vegepods are an easy to manage contained raised gardening bed is perfect for the home. Control your growth and vegie quality in a separate environment away from the ground and away from pests.

Self watering - Vegie health is ensured with our self-watering technology by using a wicking system and watering the plants from below. Plants can last weeks without watering in our Vegepods.

You can easily grow herbs, lettuce and chinese vegetables, carrots, zucchini, beetroot and even tomatoes. Try any vegetable. Set up is simple, just slide and click the panels together and bolt to the base containers to create a single, large solid garden. The Vegecover is easily assembled and attached to the garden via a unique hinged system allowing full access to all of your plants. The Vegecover not only protects your vegies from wildlife and pests but it creates its own micro-climate to promote rapid growth.

Protective covers create a greenhouse in your backyard by using a polyethylene knitted mesh to protect crops from UV and pests. The cover also helps manage temperature by allowing water and air to penetrate.

Pop instore or online and check them out today.

Winter Gardenz Greenhouses – Built for the Tasmanian Climate

Tasmania’s cool climate doesn’t have to stop you from growing your own produce. With a Winter Gardenz Greenhouse, you can grow herbs, leafy greens, and even compact vegies in containers all year round. These durable, insulated greenhouses create a warm, protected environment—perfect for extending the season and keeping your crops thriving through the cold. Fresh, homegrown food, even in winter!

Available in a range of sizes to suit every garden space - shop instore or online .

How to Prune Floribunda & Hybrid Tea Bush Roses

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:39:51 GMT

A simple guide to pruning Bush Roses at home

July is a great month for planting new roses but is also the time to give your existing roses some attention for a fabulous display of colour and fragrance over the flowering season. August is the best time to prune rosesIn Tassie.

The task of rose pruning can be daunting, but roses are very forgiving and will bounce back beautifully. Winter rose pruning is important as it helps to reduce disease, improve air circulation, allows more light in and encourages good strong new growth. This allows the plant to put the energy into producing an abundance of beautiful blooms as the flowering time arrives.

Sharp and clean tools are essential for causing minimal damage to your roses. Before you begin any pruning wipe down cutting implement blades with Metholated Spirits or a 10% solution of Bleach. Repeat this process of cleaning your blades in between pruning each rose to ensure no transfer of any virus that may be present.

Simple guidelines:

Begin your pruning of bush roses by removing half of the existing growth. If the rose bush has not been pruned for several seasons, remove two thirds of the existing growth.
From the remaining plant, remove any dead, diseased, or damaged stems.
Remove any old woody branches.
Open up the centre of the plant by removing all inward growing stems. This will allow more light and air flow into the rose bush.
Prune the remaining stems to just above an outward facing bud. The new growth will then grow outwards and produce flowers around the outside of the bush.
Do not be afraid to prune these stems back to about 30cm to 40cm from the graft. It will look as if you have been harsh, but you will soon be rewarded with nice bushy plants full of lush new growth.
These final cuts should be at about a 45 degree angle on the vertical. Make the cut so it is sloping away from the bud so that rain and dew won’t collect in the area where the bud forms onto the stem. This will help control any fungal problems.

Once pruning is complete, give the pruned rose a good spray with Lime Sulphur to control pests and diseases that are hiding ready for the new growth to appear.

Fertilise with a quality organic based fertiliser suitable for roses and mulch with a nice thick layer of mulch . It will not be long until the fresh new growth appears, and you will be rewarded with an abundance of beautiful blooms to delight the senses.

Talk to our friendly, knowledgeable staff instore about pruning other types of roses.

Pruning Deciduous Fruit Trees

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:37:18 GMT

Winter is a great time to prune some of your deciduous fruit trees, berries, fruiting bushes and productive vines.

Sharp and clean tools are essential for causing minimal damage to your fruiting plants. Before you begin any pruning wipe down cutting implement blades with Metholated Spirits or a 10% solution of Bleach. Repeat this process of cleaning your blades in between pruning each tree to ensure no transfer of any virus that may be present.

Stone fruit, ie; Cherries, Apricots, Peaches, Nectarines and Kiwi Fruit should not be pruned in winter as they are prone to many water borne diseases that enter via open cuts when sap flow is low. These trees should be pruned immediately after fruiting in summer when sap flow is high and wounds heal quickly.

Now is the time to prune and shape your Apple, Pear, Quince and Nut trees. The vase shape method of pruning is suitable for all fruit trees - the final shape should resemble a wide angled, open centred goblet (see below).

The aim is to select three or four branches at least 50cm above the ground and each pointing in a different direction. These will become the main leaders of the future tree and will be subdivided again in later years to form sub leaders. Choose the best side branches and cut the main stem back to above the level of the highest side branch selected. Prune the outside shoots to an outside bud all at about the same level. If your tree is young and doesn’t have enough side branches, cut the main stem back to approximately 1m and select suitable branches the next year. This is a better option than using inferior branches.

During the early years of the tree’s life, it is important to develop a framework that is sufficiently strong and capable of bearing the weight of crops borne.

Be sure to remove any decaying fruit, leaves and your pruned branches as these harbor overwintering pests and disease.

PEST CONTROL
Winter is an important time to clean up fruit trees to prevent problems during the season ahead.
Lime Sulphur sprayed liberally on all deciduous fruit trees is fantastic for the control of over-wintering pest and diseases.
Copper Spray is best applied in late winter/early spring just as your trees begin to awaken from their slumber. Copper Spray will prevent stone fruit diseases such as Leaf Curl, Shot Hole and Mildew on newly emerging foliage. Timing of applying Copper Spray is important and the 1st spray should be applied as the buds begin to swell. The 2nd spray will need to applied when 80% of your flowers have dropped their petals and begun to set fruit. In Tasmania, due to our damp and humid weather in spring, trees will often require follow up spraying at fortnightly intervals until the weather dries.

Monitor your trees for early signs of disease and remember - it's never too late to spray - as disease will spread to new leaves as they emerge.

Growing Spathiphyllums (Peace Lily)

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:32:49 GMT

Peace Lily - a great air purifying plant

Spathiphyllum or ‘Peace Lily’ plants are native to tropical regions of the Americas and south eastern Asia. They are a favourite plant to grow indoors with lush foliage and long-lasting white blooms throughout the year. Growing plants in homes and offices has many proven health benefits. Plants are nature’s air purifiers and improve the feeling and wellbeing of our living spaces. Spathiphyllums are one of the best air purifying plants available.

Where to Grow

Spathiphyllums have very low light requirements. When grown indoors they enjoy filtered light, but not direct sunlight. These plants are also ideal for the low light areas of the home including bathrooms and bedrooms. They do best in consistent temperatures so avoid spots that are constantly draughty.
Care

Spathiphyllums are low maintenance and will bring years of pleasure. There are a few rules to follow to have your Spathiphyllums continue to thrive and be looking great.

Keep moist but not wet. Only water plants when they are drying out. The best method for testing if your indoor plant needs water is to stick your finger in the soil to check. Only water when dry.
Spathiphyllum’s fertilising requirements are quite low. Weakened solutions of liquid fertiliser (follow the instructions for indoor plants) can be applied every few weeks when plants are actively growing. Alternatively, the application of controlled release pellets for indoor plants to the top of the growing mix a couple of times a year is a no fuss way to have plants fed, happy and looking great.
If leaf tips start to brown, it can be a sure sign of over-fertilising or under-watering.
Regular spraying of foliage with a mist of water will increase the humidity around the plant, which is important in the dry conditions of airconditioned environments.
To wipe over the leaves of Spathiphyllums plants with a horticultural oil such as All Seasons Oil will have your plants looking spectacular.
Remove old or damaged leaves.
Generally, Spathiphyllums are not highly susceptible to disease or insect attack. We can assist to fix any problems that may occur.
Varieties
There are many varieties of Spathiphyllums. Other than a green flowering form, they all have stunning white flowers. There are large leaf varieties such as Spathiphyllum ‘Sensation’ to small compact varieties such as Spathiphyllum ‘Petite’ and just about every size in between. There is also a beautiful variegated leaf form named Platinum with silver white foliage.

It is easy to find the perfect Spathiphyllum at Stoneman's to bring brightness and freshness to your life.

Growing Spring Bulbs

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:29:12 GMT

How to Grow Spring Flowering Bulbs

Flowering bulbs are a highlight in the garden and home. Spring flowering bulbs begin to flower in late winter and bring with them the colourful promise of the spring ahead.

Although all are referred to as ‘bulbs’, there are four different types of bulbs.
True Bulbs include tulips and daffodils.
Rhizomes are swollen stems such as Iris.
Tubers include plants such as dahlias and potatoes.
Corms include cyclamen and gladioli.

Spring flowering bulbs are planted from February to May. Some begin to flower as the days begin to lengthen in late winter and others create spectacular spring displays and will flower throughout the spring months. Spring flowering bulbs include Anemones, Daffodils, Dutch Iris, Freesias, Grape Hyacinth, Hyacinth, Jonquils, Ranunculi, Scillas, Spring Stars and Tulips.

Before planting tulips and hyacinths, put them in a paper bag and then into the crisper part of the fridge for about six to seven weeks. Mark them clearly so they are not mistakenly used for other purposes. This tricks the bulb by telling it that winter is over and they will flower earlier and more prolifically.

Planting

Select a position with good well- draining soil. Prepare the bed by digging in generous amounts of organic compost. This is particularly important in soggy or very sandy soils. Remove any clogs and weeds. Roots grow from the bottom of the bulb so ensure that your compost is dug in nice and deep. Add a quality, well balanced, organic fertiliser to the garden bed. It is best to select a location that best suits the type of bulb being grown.

The general rule is to plant the bulb two to three times the depth of the height of the bulb. Bury a little deeper in sandy soils and a little shallower in clay soils. Plant with the growing point facing up and the basal plate (where the roots grow from) facing down. This basal plate is often easier to identify than the growing point. If you cannot work this out, plant on it’s side and the plant will sort it out for you.

Plant bulbs in clusters or in rows, depending on the effect required. In the garden, plant the bulbs two to three widths apart. Bulbs multiply and this will give several years before there is a need to thin them out.

Once bulbs are in position, backfill, firm the soil to prevent air pockets and water in well. Add a little more soil if required.

Planting Bulbs in Pots, Bowls, and Containers

Potted flowering bulbs are a wonderful feature for spring. These can be brought indoors as living flower arrangements for special events and then returned to their outdoor location for longer flowering. Potted bulb gardens can be one type of bulb or mixed for a long-lasting spring display. Many garden retailers will have packs of bulbs that can be grown together or ask for the best advice for creating your own unique mix.

When growing bulbs in containers, always use a premium quality potting mix. This will have the perfect drainage and include all the fertilizer required for stunning results.

Try a Hyacinth Vase

Why not get creative and grow a hyacinth in a bulb vase. These bulb vases are shaped like an hourglass. Just put the bulb in the top but don’t let it touch the water because it might rot. It will send down roots at the right time. Place it into a dark spot indoors and it will shoot. Then move into a well-lit position and it will burst into flower and fill the room with a wonderful fragrance.

Harvest of Colour

Mark the area so you remember where and what has been planted.

All flowering bulbs are very bright and colourful and many of them such as Freesias, Hyacinth and Jonquils will fill the air with wonderful spring fragrances. Unless there is a very dry winter, there is nothing to do but to wait for the showcase of spring colour to come to life.

After Flowering

Bulbs form the following year’s flowers as they are dying back. After flowering is complete let the bulb stems and leaves die back naturally. Once these have died down, the bulbs can be lifted and stored in a dark, cool, airy spot to be replanted next year or just left in the ground for an even more spectacular show for the next spring.

Curcubits

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:24:16 GMT

Curcubits

Cucurbits include cucumber, pumpkin, zucchini, squash, watermelon and rockmelon. These all share traits and enjoy similar growing conditions. All are easy to grow and highly productive in the home garden. Pumpkin and watermelon vines require room to grow but can trained over or structures. Cucumbers and rockmelons require less space and can be grown vertically on a trellis or obelisk.

Position
• Cucurbits require warm, frost-free conditions
• In cool areas, seedling can be started in protected positions and planted out once the risk of frost has passed.
• All cucurbits prefer full sun
• Their foliage (particularly zucchini and squash) is easily damaged and dried out in hot winds so grow in a protected position.

Planting
• Cucurbits require warm, frost-free conditions
• Sow seeds or plant cucurbits seedlings from September to January. In cool areas, seedling can be started in protected positions and planted out once the risk of frost has passed.
• Seeds and seedlings are readily available at Stoneman's during the planting season.
• If planting seeds, plant 2-3 seeds in each planting mound 10cm apart, and then thin them out to leave only the strongest seedling.
• Water seeds in well, but don’t water them again until they germinate – they are very prone to rotting.
• Don’t overcrowd cucurbits. They are very prone to fungal disease and need good airflow around the vines. In general, allow 2m between pumpkin and watermelon vines, 1m between zucchinis and squash and 20-30cm between cucumbers.

Watering and fertilising
• Cucurbits are vigorous growers. Apply an all-purpose fertiliser in the first week after planting. Follow up with regular light applications every 3-4 weeks.
• They have lots of foliage and dry out easily. Keep soil at the base of plants evenly moist as irregular watering can lead to poor production and poor-quality fruit.
• Avoid watering the foliage and remove old leaves to reduce fungal problems.

Support
• All cucurbit vines will climb if you let them.
•It is best to grow cucumbers on a 1 to 2m high trellis or support. the vines and fruit. This will support the vines and fruit, save space and keep and keep the fruit off the ground.
• Pumpkins and melons can be trained over up fence or over structures to save space in a small space.

Overcoming poor fruit set
Poor fruit set in cucurbits is often due to inadequate pollination and lack of bees. Pollinating flowers by hand is easy to do and will ensure an abundant crop. Identify the male and female flowers. Males have long slender stems and female flowers have a swollen base. Pick off a male flower, remove the petals to reveal the central ‘style”. Use a small artist paintbrush to brush the pollen onto the pistil inside the female flower. This is best done early in the morning.

Harvesting
Use secateurs to remove the fruits from their vines to avoid damage to fruit and vines. Leaving a length of stem on the harvested fruit helps to minimise deterioration
Pumpkin – Harvest when the fruit produces a hollow sound when tapped and stems are hard and dry. Clean and dry fruit and store in a cool, airy and dry spot.
Watermelon – Picking a ripe watermelon from the garden is one of life’s greatest pleasures. Give the fruit a tap – a ripe melon will have a dull thud sound. Also check the skin of the fruit where it meets the ground. It should be a yellow-white colour when mature.
Rockmelon – Smell the fruit. Ripe rockmelons have a strong sweet smell and come away freely from the vine. Store in the fridge.
Zucchini and Squash – Harvest young (zucchini 15-20cm long, squash 7-15cm wide) and store excess in the fridge. Larger fruit looks impressive but become watery and lose flavour. Check and harvest plants every 1-2 days.
Cucumber – Depends on the variety and use. Small fruit less than 10cm long are best for pickling. Harvest young to avoid large seeds.

Growing Fruit Trees

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:19:25 GMT

Once growing fruit trees at home was very common. Nowadays with gardens being smaller, the availability of wonderful new generation fruit trees has seen a resurgence in growing healthy home-grown goodness in the places and spaces we call home. There are dwarf forms/varieties of most fruits which don’t take a lot of space. These can be grown in small gardens, in pots or containers and espaliered, (trained to grow flat) against a fence as space savers. This allows a collection of many fruits spread through the season.

When choosing fruit trees, consider varieties best suited to your area as they love a warm and sunny spot in the garden.

Pip fruit such as apples and pears have always been the most popular fruit because of their universal appeal, easy to eat, and ripen over a long season. They are vitamin rich, great tasting, and are relatively easy to grow. They are also very attractive trees with their spring blossom.

Stone fruit such as cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines and plums, are also favourites with the great variety of taste. Stone fruit does not keep as long as pip fruit, but with the many varieties giving a spread of maturity, it is possible to plan a spread of harvest dates.

Dwarf varieties of most fruits are now available which are ideal where space is limited.

How to Care

Planting

Choose a warm sunny position, sheltered from strong winds. Pip and stone fruit trees will grow in most soils, but in clay soils, raise plantings and add lots of compost. When planting spread roots out carefully over slightly mounded soil at bottom of hole.

Pip and stone fruit trees are most commonly available in winter as ‘bare root’ plants. However they can also be purchased in pots at most times of the year. Whilst winter is the main planting season, they can be planted at other times provided they are watered regularly.

Mulching

This is a highly recommended practice as it suppresses weeds and conserves moisture in the soil. A layer of mulch, compost or similar laid on the surface in October will prevent moisture loss and greatly benefit the trees.

Feeding and Watering

Fruit trees benefit from an annual dressing of lime or gypsum in July/August, followed by an application of ‘a suitable Citrus and Fruit Tree Fertiliser in September.

Many fruit trees can withstand considerable dry periods, but watering will greatly improve the result. Ensure soil does not dry out after planting, but be careful not to overwater (only if a dry spell follows planting – do not overwater as root rot could result).

Over the Spring to Summer period, water regularly to ensure plant does not dry out while establishing in its first year.

Pests and Diseases

There are a number of pests and diseases that attack fruit trees. If particular pests and diseases are very prevalent in your area it may pay to choose different fruits that are not affected.

Apples, pears and quinces are attacked by codling moth, aphids, mites, black spot and powdery mildew. Some new varieties are black spot tolerant.

Stone fruits (peaches, plums, nectarines and apricots), are attacked by oriental fruit moth, aphids, leaf curl, brown rot, shot hole and rust.

Most diseases are minimised with a winter clean up spray. Ask us about a safe and effective spray program to suit your situation.

Pruning

Pruning is divided into two stages.
1. Pruning to shape in the young stages. When planting, select 3 or 4 strong branches and reduce by 2/3 to outwards facing bud. Remove all other growth

2. Pruning for continuous fruiting and maintaining shape of established trees. Pruning to shape is dependent on the variety and to some extent the shape you want.

Basically there are three shapes:

Vase shape – The traditional open centre with 3 to 4 main leaders for framework.

Central leader or pyramid – A more modern method as it takes less space and trees can be kept narrow. Ballerina apples are very suited to this method.

Espalier – An ideal method of training and pruning where space is limited.
Helpful Tips

Focus on pruning to the shape you want.

Always remember that the strongest new growth will come from the first bud below where the pruning cut is made. In general prune to regulate growth, allow light in, encourage flowers and fruit.

Generally, prune in Winter.

In years 1 and 2 prune hard to make a sturdy framework and shape the tree.
Pruning for continuous fruiting is important once the tree has established. This is relatively easy once you know where the fruit will form.
Apples, pears, quinces, plums, and apricots fruit on the same spurs for several years. New spurs form as old ones die.\

Bear fruit on spurs and 2 year old + laterals. Allow lateral branches to develop uncut until buds form, then trim back about 2/3 each year. Thin out some if tree becomes overcrowded.

Apricot

Also bear on laterals and spurs. Treat the same as apples.

Plums

Bear fruit on 1 and 2 year old laterals. Require little pruning. Thin and trim back as required to maintain tree at reasonable size.
Cherries

Fruit on spurs on 2 year old wood. Require little pruning, apart from trimming and thinning. Prune in Autumn to encourage new growth but don’t cut out all previous year’s growth.

Peaches and nectarines

Peaches and nectarines fruit on one year old wood. That is, the wood grown last year will carry fruit this year. When pruning, do not cut this wood out, but shorten it only and/or remove only some of it.
Peaches and Nectarines laterals fruit for one season only. Prune to produce new laterals each year.
Pollinators

Many plums, and some cherries and apricots require another variety to be grown nearby to ensure pollination. Check with your garden centre for the best pollinator varieties.

Edible Container Gardens

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:15:20 GMT

Edible Container Gardens

With house blocks becoming smaller and homes becoming larger, the garden for many people looks much different to the gardens of the past. The garden may be a small backyard, a courtyard or an apartment balcony. Small areas do not mean that you need to miss out on the pleasures of growing your own food. There is a fantastic range of small growing fruit trees that are perfect for pots and small garden spaces.

Dwarf citrus trees that are extremely popular and are ideally suited for pots and containers on sunny balconies and courtyards. They have lovely sweetly-scented blossoms with lots of full-size fruit being produced over a long season. Citrus are an excellent source of Vitamin C and are popular in Asian cooking, drinks, seafood dishes, desserts, cakes and marmalade. It is possible to grow your own citrus at home, no matter what your garden looks like.

There is a fantastic range of dwarf fruiting trees including Apples, Cherries, Nectarines, Peaches and Plums. These are excellent for growing fresh and healthy food at home in smaller spaces.

Strawberries in hanging baskets are a fabulous way to grow this delicious fruit while taking advantage of all of your available spaces. Blueberries are one of the most antioxidant rich foods in the world, packed with fibre, vitamins and minerals including Manganese, vitamin C, iron and potassium. They are so good for you and easily grown in pots at home.

Always use a premium quality potting mix when growing any plants in pots. Stoneman’s Premium Potting Mix has the correct blend of fast and slow acting fertiliser and water retention granules to ensure the very best results.

By growing in pots, whatever your garden looks like, it is possible to have fresh and healthy food at home.

Curly Leaf

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:12:20 GMT

Prevent Leaf Curl in Peach & Nectarine trees

What is Curly Leaf ? A disease caused by the fungus Taphrina deformans.

As spring approaches Curly Leaf may be about to rear it’s ugly head and attack your peach & Nectarine trees. Curly Leaf will stop your trees properly photosynthesising which will result in an inability to produce fruit.

Symptoms

Leaf Curl symptoms appear early in the season, approximately 1 month after flowering starts. On young leaves, infected portions may be pink - red in colour.

These areas become thick, and do not expand at the same rate as healthy leaf tissue. This leads to the characteristic curled appearance of this disease.

Whole shoots can be infected, becoming swollen and stunted, pale green to yellow and may exude gum. When this damage affects leaders, lateral branching may occur, leading to ‘witches broom’.

Young trees are particularly susceptible to shoot infection. Infected fruit has raised, irregularly shaped and roughened areas which may redden long before healthy fruits show any colour change.

Disease cycle

Spores of the fungus are splashed onto the emerging leaves. The disease is most severe if cool, moist weather occurs during blossom to shuck fall.

If a severe infection occurs and the disease is not controlled, further disease cycles can occur later in the spring.

It’s time to spray for Leaf Curl on your Peach & Nectarines trees. If this simple task isn’t done soon, you’ll pay the price later on with plants that have lost vigour, have deformed foliage & reduced crops.

We recommend liquid copper as it contains micro-fine copper particles with the latest technology which helps the product stick to the plant better. This makes the spray far more effective.

Trees need to be sprayed 3 or 4 times over a 5 to 6 week period for the best chance of preventing Curly Leaf.

First spray: At bud swell - the buds fatten and are almost open (you might just see the first colour appear) and before flowering.
Second spray: At fruit set - when 90% of the flowers are finished.
Third spray: 2 weeks after 2nd spray.
4th spray: Only if weather has been particularly wet. You may need to follow up with further spraying if you experience particularly wet weather.

Growing Strawberries

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:08:13 GMT

Growing Strawberries

Strawberries are best planted from May-August into a sunny position with well drained friable soil mixed with organic matter that is free draining to at least 40cm.

Ensure that certified virus free runners are purchased and planted into a weed free soil that has been prepared. Commercial growers tend to use black plastic as a mulch around plants to prevent berries from touching the soil thereby encouraging fruit rot, however weedmat or layers of organic mulch such as straw or pine needles (excellent) will do much the same thing. Mulching also serves to reduce soil evaporation and increases soil temperature, thereby encouraging earlier fruiting.

Strawberries need to be kept constantly moist in summer though it should be applied slowly via drip irrigation or micro sprays. Inconsistent watering may result in cracked fruit.

Fertilising can be through either regular liquid feed (such as Tomato Food as this is high in postassium) or a slow release fertiliser (e.g. Osmocote). If planting into a well manured bed little extra feeding should be necessary apart from some trace elements, as these are almost impossible to get from manure sources.

Runners during the growing season should be removed so that the plants' energy can be directed towards fruiting. If leaves are removed after the summer crop a second crop in autumn should be obtained. Only ever grow strawberries in the same plot in the garden for 2-3 years as there will be a build up of disease in the soil, for this same reason plants should be changed every 2-3 years as they eventually succumb to viral disease and their yields will decline. Never plant strawberries into a bed where the previous crop were either capsicum or tomatoes as they tend to encourage the same fungal disease. A healthy plant should crop approximately 4 punnets of strawberries in a season. Pick in the cool of the morning when fruit is fully coloured. Keep handling of fruit to a minimum as fruit bruises easily. Strawberries will also grow successfully in pots and hanging baskets provided a good quality potting mix is used, we recommend Stoneman's Premium Potting Mix.

The main problems tend to be snails, which can be controlled with pellets or birds which will stop at nothing to eat the fruit. The only answer is to cover tightly with bird netting so they cannot burrow underneath.

Strawberry aphids can attack plants but are easily countered with Pyrethrum. The main disease problem is grey mould (Botrytis) which will rot fruit in humid weather. Applications of Mancozeb will prove effective.

Varieties:
Red Gauntlet - main commercial variety with high yields, an extended cropping season but a fairly bland taste.
Tioga - Good taste with large fruit and long fruiting season.
Sweetheart - Grown from seed. Good flavour.
Alpine - Everbearing variety, grown from seed, sweet tasting small strawberries.

Note: High levels of soil nitrogen often leads to large healthy bushes but very little fruit. If this happens apply a fertiliser high in potassium such as Manutec Tomato food the following season and trim off all leaves in mid summer.

SOME STRAWBERRY FACTS:

Throughout history gargles and mouthwashes for sore gums and mouth ulcers were made from strawberry leaves.

Dried leaves can be used as a tea substitute for those wanting to avoid caffeine.

Fresh fruit if cut and rubbed over face will whiten it and remove slight sunburn. It can also remove discoloration of the teeth if you leave juice on for 5 minutes.

How to Grow Alliums

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:04:00 GMT

How to Grow Alliums

The Allium group of plants include about 800 species. There are only a few that are known as edible crops and these have been grown for centuries to add flavour and goodness to food. The main Alliums that we are familiar with are onions, garlic, leeks, and spring onions and chives.

When to Plant
Most Alliums are best planted around the shortest day and harvested around the longest day. Although this is a good guide, the season is greatly extended when planted progressively from Equinox to Equinox - March 22nd to September 21st.

Onions
The main onions grown in the home garden are the red, white and brown onions.
Onion seed can be sown in beds or seed trays and transplanted when the seedlings are 10cm or so high. They should be planted 10-15cm apart in rows 20 to 30cm apart. Buying onions as seedlings in punnets is a convenient way to begin your onion growing. Wash the soil from the punnet & separate the seedlings before laying the seedlings on the ground and just cover the roots with soil. They will right themselves to be upright within a few days.
The onions will be ready to harvest in six to eight months. They are ready when the tops die off and the leaves dry and fall over. After they are pulled out they should be left in the sun for a few days. When the skin is quite dry the top is screwed off and the roots rubbed off. They can then be stored in wire baskets or mesh bags in a cool dry place.

Leeks
Leeks are easy to grow. Leeks can be planted from seedlings or sown in a seed tray and planted out after about 6 weeks. They have the mildest and sweetest flavour of the onion family, and there are lots of ways you can enjoy them in cooking.
Begin to harvest in 15 -18 weeks once they are large enough to use. Leeks can be left in the ground for a long period so do not need to be all harvested at once.

Garlic
Garlic is grown for its pungent bulb. It is easy to grow and is popular in kitchen creations.
Garlic cloves are available to be planted during autumn and winter for harvesting in late spring-summer. Plant in a nice sunny position with well-draining soil.Lime the soil well and add a little phosphorus to aid in bulb production.Garlic plants are not ready to harvest for 7-8 months so choose a spot that will not interfere with the planting of other crops.

Planting Garlic Cloves
1- Separate the cloves and plant the largest ones into moist soil, 15 cm apart. Push them in, pointy end up, until they sit just below ground level.
2- Apply a slow-release, high phosphorus fertiliser at planting and again three months later. In spring, apply a low nitrogen-based, balanced fertiliser to fatten out the bulbs.
3- Don’t water the soil until the cloves have germinated, which should be about two weeks after planting. Water often enough to keep the soil moist but not cold and sodden.
4- Mulching helps to control weeds and to keep the soil moist. Apply about 3cm of mulch such as straw or sugarcane mulch.

Garlic plants are ready to harvest once the leaves change from green to brown and the flower stems begin to soften. Mostly the garlic bulbs are close to the surface and easily pulled out by the leaves. A garden fork may be needed to loosen the bulbs if they are a little deeper. Hang harvested garlic in a dry position with good air flow to allow bulbs to ‘harden’ and leaves to dry. Garlic can be stored in a dark, dry place for about 6 months.

Spring Onions
Unlike the normal globe onions, Spring Onions are grown for their slender white stems and leaves. They still have small edible bulb and the entire plant is filled with flavour and goodness. Spring Onions can be grown all year but they do enjoy the cooler months.

Spring Onions are easy to grow in the home garden. They do not need lots of space and are suitable to grow in pots and containers. They can be grown from seeds or purchased as seedlings or in small pots ready to plant. Spring Onions can be planted nice and close at 5mm apart. Harvest begins in 8 to 12 weeks. Spring Onions are not dried before use. Harvest, remove dry leaves to expose the white stems, remove roots, wash and use.

Chives
Chives are a great herb to grow in the home garden. There are so many great uses for the easy to harvest and tasty stems that give a fresh dash of green colour and mild onion flavour to salads, dishes and soups.
The two species of chives commonly grown in home gardens are common chives and garlic chives.
Common chives consist of clumps of small, slender bulbs that produce thin, tubular, blue-green leaves reaching 25cm – 35cm in height. The flowers are also edible and may be white, pink, purple, or red, depending on the variety.

Garlic chives look similar to common chives, but leaves are flatter, greener, and they grow to about 50cm in height. As their name suggests, their leaves have a mild garlic flavour. Flowers are white and are larger and less densely clustered than those of common chives. Garlic chives are not quite as cold hardy as common chives.

When planting Chives, plant in a clump with seedlings about 10cm – 15cm apart. Chives are easy to grow and are drought tolerant but consistent watering through the drier months will ensure lots of fresh and tasty stems to harvest. Chives are shallow growing plants and regular mulching will conserve water and help to control weeds. Use a good, organic, high nitrogen fertiliser in late spring to maintain good production for summer feasting. Divide chive clumps every few years to give plenty of room for fresh, new growth

Although most Alliums are in the garden for long periods of time, they not only supply a reliable source of tasty and goodness filled food for the household, but they look fantastic as they do this.

Cymbidium Orchids

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 09:00:45 GMT

Cymbidium Orchids

Cymbidium orchids are stunning and are a rewarding spectacular living flower arrangement right throughout the cooler months.

Their hardiness sets them apart from many of the more tender, tropical orchids such as slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum) and moth orchids (Phalaenopsis), which need warm or hot house conditions outside the tropics. Cymbidiums are available in a wide range of spectacular colours and are classified into three sizes (by the width across the top two petals of the flower): standards 100mm up, intermediate 55-90mm and miniature up to 55mm.

Plant details
Common name: Orchids
Botanic name: Cymbidium spp.
Climate: Cymbidium orchids will grow in most mainland capital cities and coastal districts. Cymbidiums are native to Asia and northern Australia but grow well in southern regions when protected from extreme cold and grow in warmer areas when grown in a sheltered, shady position.

Good points:
Due to modern breeding, cymbidiums now come in an array of colours from white, pink, oranges, apricots, browns, reds, burgundy, yellows, creams and greens. Cymbidium Orchids need to be grown in a pot in cymbidium potting mix in a shaded garden area or a shadehouse. They do not require a great deal of work. The most commonly grown cymbidium orchids bud in winter and flower from May through August and September to produce stunning long-lasting flowers. Some orchids are capable of producing up to four flower spikes from each bulb and have erect, fleshy leaves. Once in flower the plants can be brought indoors into a bright room where the blooms can be enjoyed for many weeks.

Uses:
Potted around the house indoors or outdoors to provide stunning colour and style to indoor spaces, as well as the garden. Orchids will not grow in garden soil but can be made to look as if they are growing in the garden by planting them in orchid potting mix on top of the garden soil. Apply the orchid mix to a depth of at least 30cm. Cymbidiums are a very popular florist cut flowers and used in corsages.

Care:
Many orchid enthusiasts have an orchid potting mix recipe that they swear by but if orchids are grown in a professional specialist cymbidium orchid potting mix with good drainage, there is very little chance of spreading pests and diseases. The potting mix is made up of pine bark, peat, coarse sand and polystyrene.

Do not grow these plants in soil in the ground. Maintain moist potting mix by watering once or twice a week, depending on the weather, and fertilise with a specialist orchid fertiliser. Different formulations are available to encourage flowering and growth. Always read the directions for recommended rates of application. Keep in a shaded position such as under deciduous trees, on a well lit veranda or in a shadehouse but make sure that plants receive enough light to flower. Lush green leaves and few flowers indicate that your cymbidiums are too shaded. Divide after flowering when the plant fills the pot and replant segments into new pots with orchid potting mix.

Growing outdoors:
Although cymbidium orchids are usually grown in pots they can be grown as garden plants if planted into a mound of orchid mix and the position is right. Give plants grown outdoors shade from hot sun particularly in summer but expose to more light in autumn and winter to encourage bud formation.

Colour Your World

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 08:57:28 GMT

Colour Your World

Adding Seasonal Beauty to Your Garden

The feel, look, and style of a garden can completely transform with the seasons – and one of the easiest ways to do this is by adding seasonal colour. With the right plants, you can enjoy a garden that bursts with vibrant hues and delightful scents all year round. At Stoneman’s, we love helping you get creative with eye-catching combinations and fragrant blooms that bring every corner of your garden to life.

Colour and Scent Inspiration for Your Garden

Bold & Beautiful

Nothing catches the eye quite like strong shades of red, yellow, and blue. Pair yellow with blue for a striking, high-contrast display.

Contrast is Key

Use the colour wheel to your advantage! Opposites attract in the garden – try orange with blue, yellow with purple, or red with green. Add touches of white to make your colours really pop.

Neutral Hues

Whites, silvers, beige, and cream work beautifully with any colour palette. They’re fantastic fillers and help soften bold planting schemes.

Hot, Hot, Hot

Create drama with fiery tones – pinks, oranges, reds, and purples bring energy and excitement, perfect for focal points in the garden.

Soft & Sweet

Pastel shades of pale yellow, lavender, baby blue, and cream (instead of bright white) create a soothing, calming effect that feels gentle and fresh.

Scented Annuals

Fragrance is just as important as colour. Many blooms that open later in the day rely on perfume to attract pollinators. To maximise scent, cluster pots of fragrant annuals in your entertainment areas or plant en masse for impact. The more you grow, the stronger the perfume!

Bring Colour to Life All Year Round

Whether you’re planting from seed, seedlings, advanced packs, or ready-to-go potted colour, there’s always a way to refresh your garden and create a spectacular display. With the right seasonal choices, you’ll enjoy a garden that feels alive with colour, fragrance, and personality all year long.

At Stoneman’s Garden Centre in Hobart, we’re here to help you choose the perfect plants, from bold and bright blooms to delicately scented favourites. Pop in and let us help you colour your world this season. ��

The Healthy Home Office

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 08:53:32 GMT

Whether temporary or permanent, the home office has become an important space as more people are working from home. A pleasant and comfortable work zone will improve work satisfaction and productivity. If a temporary home office space is required, here are some keys to ensure that your work space is a pleasant and enjoyable place to be.

The Position – Ideally a space away from the activities of the household is desirable. A spare room transformed is excellent if this is available. It will mean changes and rearranging, but this is normally achievable with skillful use of space.

It is not always possible to find a spare room and a small area of the main living space may need to be claimed. This should be screened off from the living area as much as possible. Plants are great for screening off a separate work space. Create your own little jungle corner.

Think Big – If the space is available, bring in some large potted plants. Olive trees are very hardy and will cope with periods indoors. Even Citrus trees can be added to your indoor space and bring with them a wonderful fresh fragrance. Think outside the normal to bring the natural goodness of the outdoors to the indoor spaces.

Your View – Windows will give access to fresh air and a view of the great outdoors. A view into the garden is fantastic and will connect you beautifully. If the view is less than inspiring, create a view with plants. This can be a garden or a collection of potted plants.

The Workspace – A desk or table with ample room for equipment is ideal. The key to working at home is to be organised. Bookwork and papers can easily be piled if organised correctly. A comfortable chair is a necessity for the long hours of sitting. To be able to use the chair from the ‘normal’ office is a huge advantage if this is possible. A beautiful potted plant or two in your space will make life much more pleasant.

The Routine – Work in some daily exercise. Have your start and finish times. Take your breaks with a walk around the garden. This is a great chance to check on the progress of the veggie patch. A ten minute stretch and stroll is recommended for each hour of sitting. When the workday is done, close everything down and be prepared for the next day. Resist the temptation to return to work projects until it is start time tomorrow. A good walk or a half hour in the garden will give a great unwind time to move into an after-work mindset.

Plants are proven to improve the air quality and general well-being of our spaces and our lives. Now more than ever, it is important to connect with nature and with each other. Make your ‘Stay at Home’ time an experience to refocus and reset the important things of life.

Growing Roses

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 08:50:30 GMT

Learn how to get the best out of your roses

Originating from China, the earliest modern rose was the tea rose. With centuries of breeding, modern roses are long flowering with it possible to achieve continuous flowering from spring to autumn. There are single, semi double and double flowered forms in every colour imaginable and most with a beautiful fragrance.

Rose Care

Roses are deciduous (falling off at maturity) shrubs. The best time to plant bare root plants is in winter. There is a great range of potted roses available that are great to plant in spring or summer.

Planting

Roses like a sunny, open position in the garden and love a rich and well-drained soil. Prepare the soil before planting by digging in plenty of compost and a dressing of good quality rose food. Raise beds in clay soil to improve drainage.

Before planting, cut away any damaged branches. Aim for 3 to 4 main leaders and with sharp secateurs cut the main leaders to within 4 to 5 buds from the base of the plant. Plant the rose to a depth level with the bud union just above the soil.

Pruning

Prune roses when they are dormant in winter. Remove weak or diseased growth to encourage new growth in spring. Always use sharp secateurs. Make the pruning cut 5mm above a bud on a 45 degree angle slanting backwards. Remove spent flower heads in summer for continuous flowering.

Feeding and Watering

Roses require regular feeding. Use a good balanced fertiliser. Feed roses in early spring when new growth appears and again in mid-summer. Water in well.

They require regular watering throughout summer. Deep watering is more effective than light sprinklings. Avoid wetting the foliage as this encourages the spread of fungus diseases.

Mulching

Mulch roses in early spring and again in mid-summer with a compost or mulch. Mulching keeps the roots cool and moist.

Pest & Disease

For all of their beauty, roses do require regular spraying and maintenance to keep them pest and disease free. Good watering, feeding, pruning and air circulation help to keep roses healthy and disease free.

Aphids – Aphids are small sucking insects that appear on new growth. Hose off, squash with fingers or spray with a suitable spray such as Mavrik.

Scale – Rose Scale look like fine white flakes stuck to the stem. Control with white oil or all season’s oil.

Mites – Mites are found on the underside of leaves causing distortion, speckling and silvering of leaves. Spray with Mavrik, or a mite killer.

Black Spot – Black spot appears as dark brown black spots in yellow rings on the leaf, usually in summer. Avoid wetting the foliage when watering. Copper Fungicide can be sprayed as a protectant. Use a spray such as Yates Fungus Fighter or Rose Shield.

Mildew – Powdery Mildew appears as a white floury powder on the leaf surface. Improve air circulation around the plant. Use a spray such as Yates Fungus Fighter or Rose Shield.

Downy mildew is a disease sometimes confused with Black Spot as it appears the same. Downy Mildew tends to attack Roses in early spring while Black Spot attacks in late spring and summer. Use a spray such as Yates Fungus Fighter or Rose Shield.

Rust – Rust appears on the underside of the leaf as orange spots and turn black. Spray with a spray such as Yates Fungus Fighter.

Popular Rose Varieties

Hybrid Tea roses grow from 1 to 2 metres in height with large double flowers on single stems. Some are fragrant.

Floribunda roses grow 1 to 1.5 metres in height with many clusters of flowers on one stem.

Climbers or pillar roses grow 2 metres plus in height. Some have hybrid tea type flowers others floribunda clusters.

Old Fashioned roses are often called species roses. Some grow to 4 metres in height, some are fragrant and have colourful hips in winter.

English roses (modern shrub) are bred to retain the best old fashioned rose traits of fragrance and flower form, but benefit from modern breeding being disease resistant and continuous flowering. They grow to a height of 1 to 2 metres.

David Austin roses are popular English roses.

Miniature roses grow from a height of 15 to 50cm, are compact bushes, do not require pruning and are great in patio pots and tubs.

How to Grow Citrus

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 08:46:00 GMT

Growing citrus in the home garden

Without doubt citrus trees are the most popular fruit grown in home gardens. In gardens everywhere, citrus trees are delighting gardeners with fresh, tasty and vitamin packed fruity goodness. With today’s smaller gardens, citrus trees are great in pots and there are dwarf and multi grafted varieties available to suit most situations.

At a Glance

Warm sunny position
Free draining soil
Lots of food
Water in summer

Citrus are vitamin rich, great tasting and can be picked progressively over quite a long time. Early Mandarins begin to ripen from early June with oranges grapefruit and lemons holding on until November.

This winter-early spring fruiting makes citrus so valuable when other fruit is more expensive. They are also very attractive trees with their glossy green leaves, fragrant blossom in spring and coloured fruit in winter.

Where to Plant

Citrus will grow in warm or mild climate zones.

Providing frosts are not severe they will tolerate cool conditions. Citrus will thrive in hot inland conditions providing they have water. They require a sunny position protected from cold winds.

Citrus prefer a sandy or loam soil. They will tolerate clay soils providing they are planted on a raised bed with lots of compost mixed into the soil. Dig in Organic Compost or peat to help break up clay soils and improve water-holding capacity of light sandy soils.

Citrus make ideal container plants, especially Mandarins and Limes. Use a quality potting mix with added water retention granules to ensure consistent summer water.

When to Plant

Citrus trees are available most of the year and can be planted anytime provided they are watered regularly in summer.
Citrus are big feeders. A moderately sized mature tree requires at least 500g of General or Citrus Food each year. Two thirds of this should be applied in late winter and one third in January. Pelletised Sheep Manure is a good alternative. Do not plant other crops or disturb the soil under citrus trees as their feeding roots are relatively close to the surface.

Watering

Citrus must be watered regularly through spring and summer. Irregular watering can cause fruit drop and fruit splitting, not to mention reduced yield and dry fruit.

Mulching

A layer of mulch spread over the surface under citrus trees will conserve moisture and improve performance. Take care however, to keep mulch away from the base of the tree trunk.

Pests and Diseases

Citrus trees are relatively free of insect pests, but occasionally can be attacked by scale insects, mealy bug, aphids and mites. A spray such as Yates Mavrik will control all these pests.

Varroosis, a fungal disease which sometimes attacks lemons causing rough fruit, is controlled by spraying with a spray such as Copper Sulphate Spray.

Scale are also problem that can affect citrus plants. Treat with a Pest Oil spray.

Pruning

Citrus tend to be self-shaping and so need little pruning.

Some mandarin varieties become a little thick and benefit from some thinning out, usually after pick the fruit.

Lemon trees can may require pruning back to keep them compact and easy to manage. Make sure that any shoots below the graft are removed. These are easily identified as they have different foliage.

Prune citrus fruit on new season’s growth. We advise removing any fruit in first year to encourage growth of tree and establish good strong plant.

Making your selection

Lemons

The Meyer variety is very popular because of its reliable high yield over an eight-month picking period. The fruit is of medium size and sweeter than other varieties.

Lisbon and Eureka lemons are more acidic and often preferred by chefs.

Lemonade is a very sweet lemon that does taste like delicious lemonade, and deserves its increasing popularity. These ripen during spring.

There are a number of dwarf varieties available that are great in pots or small garden areas.

Grapefruit

Once you have eaten a red grapefruit you will never return to the old-fashioned varieties.

Seedless grapefruit varieties are the traditional grapefruit that many would know. Excellent for those who like a strong marmalade. The red grapefruit varieties are very popular. All red varieties are much sweeter than the non-red varieties.

Limes

Limes are a popular ingredient in the kitchen. Most popular is the Tahitian Lime. Tahitian limes are very hardy and crop heavily. They make an excellent container feature.

Kaffir Limes are mainly grown for the leaves, and are an essential ingredient in Asian cuisine.

Mexican limes, otherwise known as ‘The Bartenders Lime’ is a small green fruit.

Limes need protection from frost until established as they do not tolerate heavy frosts.

Oranges

The seedless ‘Valencia’ orange is the best orange variety for most areas of Australia. It has few or no seeds. It is a fast-growing, hardy tree. The fruit ripen early (mid-September), but hold well on the tree for many months, making it a sweeter fruit than most other oranges in cooler areas

The ‘Washington Navel’ orange produces its superbly sweet fruit in early winter. To eat the fruit off the tree, this is the best orange of all

Navel oranges are rated very highly for flavour. Washington navel oranges are reliable in most areas of Australia. Washington Navel is rich in flavour. They are almost seedless and ripen mid to late winter.

Mandarins

Very popular with families because they are great in school lunch boxes due to the easy peal nature of most varieties.

Imperials are the most popular mandarin variety because they are the first to be harvested each season. They are a golden-orange mandarin, and one of a handful of popular citrus varieties that have originated in Australia.

Murcott mandarin varieties are known for their attractive appearance and excellent flavour. It is a large variety with the reputation of being sweet. They are also a favourite for juicing.

Other varieties available instore.

Tangelos

These are a cross between grapefruit and oranges and now only grown by the citrus enthusiast.

For all the best local advice on citrus, please speak to our friendly professional staff.

Masdevallia Orchids

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 08:43:14 GMT

Masdevallia veitchiana a.k.a ‘King of the Masdevallias’

Masdevallia veitchiana is a native of the high mountains of Peru and Colombia and as a result of its lofty home, is very much at home in Tasmania’s cool climate. This remarkable orchid can be seen in all its glory around the ruins of Machu Picchu in the spring and summer if you are lucky enough to be there at this time.

Masdevallia veitchiana is considered to be one of the easiest of the Masdevallia’s to grow and has been used extensively in hybridising work to create some wonderful hybrid Masdevallia’s with many such as the beautiful Masdevallia ‘Bay of Fires’ as well as a host of othersbeing bred right here in Tasmania.

Masdevallia’s will thrive in a cool shaded frost free position in a fern house or in a lightly shaded position beneath trees in the garden, in a free draining but moisture retentive medium such as Man Fern Mulch or Sphagnum Moss.

Masdevallia’s, unlike some of the other more familiar orchids such as Cymbidium’s, don’t have the swollen pseudo-bulbs that store water for dryer times so they will require regular watering in order to thrive.

Provided these requirements are met Masdevallia’s will rapidly multiply to fill their allotted space and produce an abundance of flowers in the late winter and spring and then follow up with a regular supply of spot flowering throughout much of the year. An occasional weak feed of liquid fertiliser will keep your orchid happy and keep the flowers rolling on.

When in flower Masdevallia’s can be brought inside the home but will need to be kept away from heating sources as they really do like it quite cool and resent high household temperatures, so be sure to keep them in a cool but light room for a short time.

Masdevallia’s truly are an easy to grow delight. As long as you meet their few simple requirements they will reward you with their exotic and delightful blooms - they are well worth a try in your garden.

Growing Potatoes

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 08:38:25 GMT

Potatoes are a wonderful root crop to produce at home and are very easy to grow.

Planting certified Seed Potatoes
The term “seed potato” can be a little misleading. Although potatoes do set seed, they do not grow true to seed. To get the variety of potato you want, you need to grow them vegetatively, meaning you re-plant a part of the actual potato. These pieces of potato are referred to as seed potatoes.

Certified Seed Potatoes
Because potatoes are propagated vegetatively, any diseases from the prior year will be carried over.

That’s why it is so important to use disease-free seed potatoes. That means certified seed potatoes, rather than supermarket potatoes. Certified seed potatoes available at Garden Centres are certified by a government authority to be disease-free.

Good seed potatoes will have at least 2-3 eyes per potato. If you have larger potatoes with many eyes on them you could cut them and grow a number of plants from one seed potato – just make sure that each chunk has not only 2-3 good eyes at a minimum but also plenty of flesh to help the potato grow.

Potatoes are planted about 15cm deep and about 30cm apart. Add some potato fertiliser. As potatoes are a root crop, potato fertiliser is high in Phosphorus which will encourage root development. To use a fertiliser high in Nitrogen will encourage lots of stem and foliage growth at the expense of the size and quantity of potatoes produced. Cover the potatoes after you plant them and wait.

Caring for Potato Plants in the Garden
You’ll start to see beautiful potato vines appear in a few days. The stems are pretty thick and the leaves are usually bright green. Let the vines grow until they are about 15cm tall and then you’ll need to do something called “hilling or mounding the potatoes”.

This can be done with soil, compost or straw – or a combination of these. Bury half of the plant leaving just the top few centimetres of leaves exposed.

The buried part of the vine will produce more roots, and most importantly, more potatoes. Meanwhile, the still-exposed leaves will continue to produce energy for the plant and will continue to grow even bigger. In another couple of weeks, you will hill or mound the growing plant up again.

Grow Potatoes in Containers
Potatoes are such an easy and versatile crop to grow they can be even grown without soil.

Potatoes can be grown in large pots, sacks, containers, barrels, old tyres even directly on concrete. When growing in containers it is important to ensure excellent drainage and, as in garden beds, use a potato fertiliser and continue to hill or mound the plants as they grow to produce even more potatoes. This will mean beginning in the bottom half of the pot or container and working your way to the top.

Harvest time
When the stems and leaves begin to die off, your potatoes are ready to harvest. Use a garden fork to dig under the root bring the potatoes to the top. Begin well back to avoid spearing the potatoes. Freshly dug potatoes can be used straight away and are generally called new potatoes. Harvest as you need to and leave to the rest of the crop in the ground until you need them. Once the tops have completely died off, harvest the remaining crop and store in a dry, cool, dark location. Do not wash the potatoes that you wish to store as this acts as a protective coat. Potato sacks are great for storing your harvest for use when required.

Potatoes are Excellent in the Garden
Potatoes are perfect to add to your home-grown food forest. They will grow in a wide variety of soil, given that it is well-drained. They are easy to grow, have beautiful vines and flowers, and produce loads of delicious edible harvest for you. One small bag of Certified Seed Potatoes is transformed into many kilograms of potatoes right from your own garden.

January is Brussels Sprout planting time

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 08:08:20 GMT

Have you ever tried to grow Brussels Sprouts in the garden but had little success?

Many of us plant these nutritious little members of the cabbage family far too late in the season, leaving the plant no time to mature in growth before the sprouts form.

To plant your Brussels Sprouts simply:
Till your soil to a depth of around 20cm, water well and then till again, adding a generous amount of garden lime and well rotted manure.

Dig a furrow and plant your seedlings in the channel created and sprinkle a little blood and bone around the new plants.

As your plants grow, gradually bring the soil in around the bases of your plants and feed regularly with a high nitrogen fertilizer in the early days (a liquid feed of Sulphate of Ammonia works well).

By the end of May your plants should be around 80cm – 1m in height and should have a nice hill of soil around their base to support them.
This is the time to stop feeding with a nitrogen based fertilizer and time for a little sprinkle of Sulphate of Potash, then it's simply a matter of waiting for the buds to form in the late winter and then a regular harvest of the emerging sprouts.

Tomato Blossom End Rot

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 08:06:35 GMT

And how to prevent it.

How to Prevent Blossom End Rot in Your Tomatoes

If you’re growing tomatoes this season, you might have heard of Blossom End Rot. Despite its name, it’s not a disease or fungal problem - it’s a physiological disorder caused by a lack of calcium within the plant. Tomatoes that are too wet or too dry can struggle to take up calcium properly, and the blossom end of the fruit is the first to suffer.

Blossom End Rot is a common issue in tomatoes and can also affect eggplant, capsicum and zucchini plants.

Blossom End Rot usually appears as a leathery, sunken blotch at the blossom end of your tomatoes, which can expand across the bottom of the fruit and eventually cause it to rot. While it can be frustrating, the good news is that prevention is straightforward.

1. Add Calcium to Your Soil

One of the best ways to prevent Blossom End Rot is to make sure your soil has enough calcium.

Before planting: Mix some lime into the soil.
For potted tomatoes: Try a water and lime slurry around the base, as calcium can easily leach from potting mix.

2. Feed Your Plants Well

A high-quality tomato fertilizer containing calcium will not only nourish your plants but also help prevent Blossom End Rot.

Apply Tomato Food around the base of your plant - feed regularly for extra support.

3. Keep Watering Consistent

Water deeply and regularly, keeping the soil evenly moist.

Too much water floods roots and dilutes nutrients, while too little water prevents the plant from absorbing calcium at all.
Calcium moves through the plant with water in a process called transpiration—think of it like sweating for plants. Leaves and stems get calcium first, and the fruit is last in line, which is why consistent watering is so important.
If you’re going away, ask someone to water your tomatoes or set up a simple irrigation system to maintain consistency.

By keeping your watering consistent and feeding your plants properly, you’ll give your tomatoes the best chance to grow healthy, juicy, and free from Blossom End Rot.

Quick Tips for Preventing Blossom End Rot

Mix lime into the soil before planting.
Use a water and lime slurry for potted tomatoes.
Apply calcium-rich tomato fertilizers like Brunnings Tomato Food.
Feed regularly with liquid tomato feed such as Flourish Tomato Food.
Water consistently - avoid letting the soil dry out or become waterlogged.
Set up a watering system if you’re away to maintain regular moisture.

By following these steps, you can greatly reduce the risk of Blossom End Rot and enjoy healthy, juicy tomatoes all season long.

Codling Moth

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 08:03:17 GMT

Control Methods

Codling Moth or Cydia pomonella is the bane of many a home orchardist however with a few simple control methods you can enjoy beautiful home grown apples without the additional protein.

There are many control methods with varying degrees of success, of these some simple thing like free ranging chickens beneath your trees can help reduce the numbers of emerging adults early in the season, a method that can help but will not eradicate the grubs.

Physical barriers such as tree banding with a grease tape will slow the climb of the emerging adults in the spring time. The banding forms a temporary shelter from which the Codling Moth can be collected.

Likewise products such as Eco Oil, a botanical oil extract, can be used with a reasonable level of control but timing needs to be exact as this product kills on contact and so will only control the moths it comes in contact with and has a very short window of cover.

The best methods of control involve a two pronged attack using a pheromone trap as an indicator of moth activity. The sticky trap will control moths on its own, however some of the female moths may have already laid eggs on your newly forming apples before visiting the trap to mate with the males they believe the pheromone is coming from. Home garden traps generally contain the pheromone of both the male and the female moth and so attract and capture both.

A relatively new product on the market is Success Ultra a product containing the active ingredient spinetorum. Spinetorum is an insecticide derived from the toxins of a bacterium and has an exceptional control of caterpillars as well as several other pest insects.

Success Ultra is best applied to trees as the last of the blossom is finishing on the tree and traps are showing evidence of activity, usually around mid-October for Hobart.

After the initial spray, two more applications at fortnightly intervals should be all that is required for grub free apples.

Success Ultra when in a liquid form has shown some toxicity to bees so is best applied later in the day when the bees have headed home for the evening and once dry appears to have no impact on beneficial insects.

Success Ultra is considered a safe product and is approved for Organic Farming as the toxins involved are from a natural source but standard precautions should be taken as per label instructions.

A little bit of effort at the beginning of the season is all that is required for delicious home grown apples and you'll have the added benefit of knowing exactly what sprays have been used on your fruit for the growing season.

You can purchase the above products instore at Stoneman's or in our online shop: https://shop.stonemans.com.au/collections/pest-disease/products/success-ultra-200ml

Deciduous Magnolias

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 08:00:27 GMT

The Heralds of Spring

Magnificent Magnolias: A Spring Showstopper for Every Garden

Magnolias are among the oldest flowering plants on earth, with origins dating back millions of years. Native to the northern hemisphere, most species come from eastern Asia, the West Indies as well as North and Central America.

Few sights are more breathtaking than a deciduous Magnolia in early spring, its bare branches covered in goblets of flowers. These trees are true garden showpieces, adding drama, fragrance, and elegance. Long before bees evolved, Magnolias relied on beetles for pollination - a fascinating trait that continues today, with their fruity fragrance still attracting beetles.

With so many stunning Magnolia varieties to choose from, the hardest part is often deciding which one to take home - but why stop at just one?

At Stoneman’s, we’re proud to offer an incredible range of Magnolia species and cultivars this season, including standout selections from world-renowned breeders like the Jury family of Taranaki, New Zealand. From compact forms perfect for small gardens to large statement trees, there’s a Magnolia to suit every space.

Magnolia Varieties You’ll Love

Magnolia ‘Vulcan’ – Bred by Felix Jury, this classic cup-and-saucer Magnolia produces rich ruby-red blooms, maturing from mid-pink on young trees to deep tones with age. Grows approx. 3m x 2m in 10 years.
Magnolia ‘Atlas’ – Famous for its enormous soft pink blooms up to 35cm across. A slightly spreading form, reaching 4m high x 3m wide.
Magnolia ‘Felix’ – Named in honour of Felix Jury by his son Mark, this variety boasts large red flowers (30–35cm) and has quickly become a favourite worldwide.
Magnolia ‘Black Tulip’ – Striking goblet-shaped blooms in deep red-black. A compact tree around 3m x 2.5m, perfect for smaller gardens.
Magnolia ‘Burgundy Star’ – Narrow and upright, with rich burgundy star-shaped flowers. Ideal for vertical accents, reaching 4m x 1.5m.
Magnolia ‘Royal Purple’ – A compact, upright form by breeder Peter Cave. Stunning blooms with deep purple exteriors and paler interiors.
Magnolia ‘Galaxy’ – An American introduction from the 1960s, producing soft rose-purple blooms on an elegant 3m x 2m upright tree.
Magnolia ‘Star Wars’ – A New Zealand cultivar with one of the longest flowering seasons. Produces vibrant pink blooms on a tall, vigorous tree (4m x 3.5m).
Magnolia ‘Ann’ & ‘Susan’ – Compact members of the “Little Girl” series, bred in the U.S. in the 1950s. Both grow to about 2m x 1.5m, making them perfect as flowering shrubs or for smaller yards.
Magnolia denudata (Yulan Magnolia) – An ancient Chinese species with pure white goblet flowers. Known as the “Lily Tree,” this slow grower (3m x 2m in 10 years) is truly elegant.
Magnolia liliiflora ‘Nigra’ – A compact, long-flowering variety with deep purple, orchid-like blooms. Grows 2.5m x 2m, perfect for limited spaces.
Magnolia × soulangeana – One of the world’s most popular Magnolias, with soft pink goblets brushed with purple. Grows into a 3m x 2.5m multi-stemmed shrub or small tree.
Magnolia × soulangeana ‘Rustica Rubra’ – A chance seedling with deeper rose-purple blooms, offering a more dramatic take on the classic form.

All of these Magnolias are fragrant, long-lasting, and reliable performers, making them an investment in both beauty and structure for your garden.

Why Plant Magnolias in Tasmanian Gardens?

Magnolias are a perfect choice for Tasmanian gardens, thriving in the state’s cool climate and fertile soils. These deciduous trees and shrubs reward gardeners with spectacular spring blooms, captivating fragrance, and lasting beauty year after year. With their wide variety of shapes, sizes, and colours, there’s a Magnolia to suit every garden—from towering statement trees to compact shrubs ideal for courtyards.

In Tasmania, one of the most popular and reliable options is the Magnolia x soulangeana hybrid. These hybrids are known for their large, open goblet-shaped flowers, appearing on bare branches in late winter to early spring. Their flowers come in a stunning range of colours - from crisp white to deep, vibrant pinks—making them a versatile and striking addition to gardens of all sizes.

Benefits of Deciduous Magnolias in Tasmania

Hardy and adaptable – well-suited to Tasmania’s climate and soils.
Spectacular seasonal display – dramatic flowers appear on leafless branches, creating a true spring highlight.
Versatile colours and forms – soft whites, rich pinks, and compact or upright habits allow for creative garden design.

Whether you’re planting a statement Magnolia tree in your front yard, adding compact flowering shrubs to a courtyard, or simply looking for a garden showstopper, Magnolias are a timeless, reliable choice for Tasmanian gardeners. Their stunning flowers, fragrance, and adaptability make them a must-have for any garden.

Visit Stoneman’s for Your Perfect Magnolia

At Stoneman’s Garden Centre, we have a fantastic range of deciduous Magnolias ready to plant this season. From classic favourites to rare hybrids, our collection includes something for every gardener.

Come in and explore our range - you’ll find inspiration and expert advice to help you choose the perfect Magnolia for your garden.

Shady characters

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 07:57:53 GMT

Shade-Loving Plants for Tasmanian Gardens

Every garden has shaded areas - whether it’s under large trees, beside a building, or tucked beneath a deck. While some gardeners shy away from these spots, shade doesn’t have to mean “empty” or “boring.” With the right plants, you can create lush, vibrant, and productive areas even in low-light conditions.

Why Shade-Loving Plants Are Important

Shaded areas often provide cooler microclimates, which can be ideal for many woodland and subtropical plants. Shade-loving plants can add colour, texture, and seasonal interest to parts of your garden that might otherwise go underused. They’re also perfect for creating privacy, softening hardscape edges, or filling tricky spots with minimal maintenance.

Popular Shade-Loving Plants for Tasmanian Gardens

1. Epimediums – Also called Barrenwort, Epimediums are perfect for groundcover in shaded spots. They produce delicate flowers in spring and feature beautiful, textured foliage year-round.

2. Ferns – From tree ferns to smaller ground ferns, these plants thrive in damp, shaded areas and provide lush greenery and texture.

3. Podophyllum – Bold foliage and unique, dangling flowers make Podophyllum an eye-catching choice for deep shade or woodland gardens.

4. Disporum – These elegant, bamboo-like plants add height and graceful flowers, ideal for understorey planting in moist shade.

5. Sarcococca (Sweet Box) – Known for its glossy foliage and fragrant winter blooms, Sarcococca is perfect for planting in very low-light conditions.

6. Lamprocapnos spectabilis (Bleeding Heart) – These striking perennials add colour and charm to moist, shady garden beds, paired beautifully with Hostas or ferns.

7. Ruscus (Butcher’s Broom) – A tough, drought-tolerant option for dry shaded areas. Its unusual leaf-like stems (phyllodes) are hardy and low-maintenance.

Tips for Growing Shade-Loving Plants

Soil and Drainage: Most shade-loving plants prefer rich, well-drained soil. Adding compost or organic matter will improve soil structure and fertility.
Moisture: While some plants tolerate dry shade, many perform best with consistent moisture. Mulching helps retain soil moisture and suppress weeds.
Layering: Mix low groundcovers, medium shrubs, and taller plants to create depth and visual interest.
Plan for Pollinators: Many shade-tolerant flowering plants provide food for bees and other pollinators. Incorporating these plants helps support local wildlife.

Visit Stoneman’s for Shade Garden Inspiration

Tasmanian gardens are full of potential, even in shady corners. At Stoneman’s Garden Centre, we stock a wide range of shade-tolerant plants suitable for both damp and dry conditions. From bold-leaved perennials to fragrant shrubs and elegant flowering options, our team can help you choose plants that will thrive in your garden’s specific conditions.

Shade doesn’t have to limit your garden - it can be an opportunity to add texture, colour, and beauty year-round. Start exploring shade-loving plants today and transform your hidden corners into lush, vibrant spaces.

Tomato Time

Thu, 20 Feb 2025 07:49:18 GMT

Growing Great Tomatoes

It’s Tomato Time!

Nothing says spring like planting tomatoes! Tomatoes love the warmth and grow best in Tasmania from mid-spring into summer. By waiting for warmer weather, your plants get off to a fast start and are less likely to run into disease problems once the conditions are right.

Tomatoes grow and fruit quickly once they’re established. Seedling punnets are perfect for mass planting, while single pots let you mix and match different varieties.

Tassie weather can be challenging at the best of times, and there are a few key things to consider when growing tomato plants here. In line with local tradition, many gardeners wait until after Show Day to plant their tomatoes.

Location: Choose a warm, sunny spot with great air circulation and some protection from the wind.

Preparation: Add plenty of manure and compost to your soil or use a premium potting mix if growing in containers

Selection: Choose a couple of different varieties to give you fruit early, mid and late season. Select sturdy compact plants.

Planting in Pots & Containers:

Remove the lower leaves from your seedling and plant it deep into the soil.
Place a stake or small cage in at planting if needed.
Water in well.
Add a good layer of mulch around the base to help retai n moisture.

Planting in the Ground:

Dig a spade-wide hole and add about one litre of Blood & Bone to the bottom.
Cover with a thin layer of soil.
Remove the lower leaves from your seedling and place it in the hole. Backfill so the seedling sits in a “pit” about 15 cm deep.
Place a tall stake or cage at planting time to support the plant as it grows.
Water the pit well. As you continue watering throughout the season, the soil will settle around the stem, helping develop a stronger, healthier root system.
Add a thick layer of mulch around the base to retain moisture.

Care Tips for Tomatoes in Tasmania

Tomatoes thrive with regular, deep watering - avoid overdoing it.
Feed consistently throughout the season. Apply Potash as the plants begin to set fruit.
Use tomato dust regularly to help prevent fungal diseases and pests.
Tip: Read our Tomato Blossom End Rot Blog for advice on preventing and managing this common issue.

Our Team’s Tomato Tips

Everyone at Stoneman’s loves growing tomatoes! From veggie patches and garden beds to pots and even polystyrene boxes, we’re obsessed with these tasty plants. Here’s what our team grows, their top tips, and favourite varieties:

Graham: "Beefsteaks are perfect for big, juicy sandwich slices. Slow to ripen, but so worth it - one tomato can cover half your burger!"

Susan: "I grow mine in large pots with multiple stakes and a water saver. Truss Plum is my favourite—it keeps producing until late April!"

Jo: "Cherry tomatoes are hands-down my fave. Quick to fruit, perfect for snacking straight off the vine, or popping in salads - yum!"

Ian: "I plant 2–4 tomatoes each year in pots. Sweet Bite cherry and Rouge de Marmande are my go-tos. Time to try some heirlooms!"

Janette:

Kelsey:

Tamika:

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April in the Garden

Enjoy Autumn Colour with Maples

What to Plant in April in Tasmania

Edibles

Spring Bulbs – Plant Now for Stunning Spring Colour

April Checklist

Harvesting & Garden Maintenance

Pest Control & Protection

March in the Garden

Tasmania’s Autumn Planting & Harvest Guide

What to Plant in March

Flowers to Plant Now

Vegetable Seedlings to Plant Now

Seeds to Sow in March

﻿ What to Harvest in March – Late Summer Crops

Vegetables

Root & Storage Crops

March Garden Jobs – Autumn Care Tips for Tasmania

How to Grow a Thriving Vegie Garden With Our Nursery Guide

Why a Local Nursery Is Your Vegie Garden’s Best Friend

Step-by-Step: Plan Your Vegetable Garden for Success

Soil, Compost, and Organic Fertiliser Tips

Choose Your Vegies: Selecting the Best at the Nursery

Eco-Friendly Pest Control and Sustainable Gardening

Tools and Products for Every Gardener

Ready to Start Your Vegetable Garden? Let’s Grow Together!

Wallaby Proof Plants

Plants That Pademelons, Wallabies and Kangaroos Don’t Usually Eat

Do Pademelons, Wallabies and Kangaroos Eat Everything?

Protecting Your Garden from Kangaroos and Wallabies

A Guide to Wallaby, Pademelon & Kangaroo Resistant Plants

Exotic Plants Often Avoided

When planning a wallaby or kangaroo-resistant garden:

The Beauty of Bulbs

Brighten Your Garden Year-Round with Flowering Bulbs

Spring vs. Summer Flowering Bulbs

How to Plant Bulbs for Best Results

Lifting, Dividing & Storing Bulbs

Bulbs in Pots & Containers

Did You Know?

Final Tips for Success

Pet Friendly Houseplants

Pet-Friendly Indoor Plants for Tasmanian Homes

African Violet (Saintpaulia)

Calathea (Prayer Plant family)

Peperomia

Golden Cane Palm (Dypsis lutescens)

Spider Plant (Anthericum comosum)

Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)

Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)

Baby Tears (Soleirolia soleirolii)

Pilea spp.

Prayer Plant (Maranta leuconeura)

Parlour Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana)

Haworthia

Phalaenopsis Orchids

Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior)

Your Expert Retail Plant Nursery Guide to Seasonal Gardening

Understanding Hobart’s Seasonal Gardening

Spring: Reinvigorate Your Garden

Remember to:

Summer: Maintain and Protect

Key Tasks Include:

Autumn: Prepare for Cooler Months

Important Steps:

Winter: Winter Gardening in Hobart: Bare Root Planting, Indoor Plants & Soil Prep

Top Winter Tips:

Monthly Planting Calendar for Hobart, Tas, Gardens

Pest Control Tips from Nursery Professionals

Soil Preparation Insights

Get Everything You Need at Stoneman's Garden Centre

Visit Us, Call, Browse or Shop Online

Blueberries

Growing Blueberries in Tasmania – A Delicious, Easy-Care Berry for Your Garden

Why Grow Blueberries?

Blueberry Growing Conditions in Tasmania

Pruning Blueberries for Better Harvests ﻿

Pollination & Harvesting ﻿

What to Harvest in March – Late Summer Crops

Pruning Blueberries for Better Harvests

Pollination & Harvesting

Popular Blueberry Varieties at Stonemans Garden Centre

Harvesting Tips

Planting Tips